If you’re looking for a houseplant with stunning, dynamic color, the burgundy princess philodendron is an excellent choice. The Burgundy Princess Philodendron offers a beautiful display of new foliage that emerges in shades of reddish-pink before maturing into deep green leaves with dramatic variegation. This guide provides everything you need to know to care for this spectacular plant.
It’s a relatively easy plant to grow, making it suitable for both beginners and experienced collectors. Its striking appearance comes from its unique leaves, which can show a mix of cream, pink, and green patterns. No two leaves are exactly alike, which adds to its charm.
We will cover its light needs, watering schedule, and how to encourage more of its famous variegation. You’ll also learn about propagation, common problems, and how to style it in your home. Let’s get started with understanding this beautiful plant’s background.
Burgundy Princess Philodendron
The Burgundy Princess is a cultivated variety, or cultivar, of the Philodendron erubescens species. It’s closely related to other popular philodendrons like the Pink Princess and the White Princess. Its key feature is its stunning and somewhat unpredictable variegation.
Each leaf is a surprise, with patterns ranging from deep burgundy and pink to light cream and standard green. The stems are often a reddish-purple color, adding to the overall “burgundy” effect. It’s a self-heading philodendron, meaning it grows in a more upright, clumping form rather than as a long vine.
Origin And History
Like many philodendron hybrids, the exact origin of the Burgundy Princess is a bit murky. It is believed to have been developed by plant breeders aiming to stabilize the vibrant colors seen in other princess varieties. It shares a lineage with the classic Philodendron erubescens, a species native to the rainforests of Colombia.
In its natural habitat, it would grow on the forest floor and climb trees. As a houseplant, it adapts well to indoor conditions, appreciating the warmth and humidity we typically provide. Its development focused on enhancing the rich, dark tones and variegation stability.
Botanical Characteristics
Understanding its growth habit helps you provide better care. The Burgundy Princess is a moderate grower under the right conditions.
- Foliage: Leaves are heart-shaped (cordate) and can grow quite large, often reaching 8 to 12 inches in length when mature. They are typically glossy and firm.
- Variegation: The variegation is sectoral and marbled, meaning blocks of color and speckled patterns appear on the leaves. This variegation is caused by a lack of chlorophyll in some plant cells.
- Growth Habit: It grows in a self-heading, upright manner. It will not naturally trail or climb extensively without support, though it may benefit from a moss pole as it gets taller to prevent leaning.
- Size: Indoors, it can eventually reach about 3 feet in height and width, forming a full, bushy appearance.
Burgundy Princess Vs. Pink Princess Philodendron
It’s easy to confuse the Burgundy Princess with the famous Pink Princess. While they are siblings, there are distinct differences.
- Primary Color: The Burgundy Princess, as the name implies, features deeper, wine-red or burgundy tones in its new growth and variegation. The Pink Princess displays brighter, bubblegum pink patches.
- Leaf Base Color: Burgundy Princess leaves often have a darker green, almost blackish-green base color. Pink Princess leaves tend to be a lighter, more standard green.
- Stability: Some growers find the Burgundy Princess’s variegation to be slightly more stable than the Pink Princess, which is notorious for reverting to all-green if not given perfect light.
Complete Care Guide
Caring for your Burgundy Princess philodendron is straightforward once you mimic its preferred tropical conditions. Consistency is more important than perfection.
Light Requirements
Light is the most critical factor for maintaining the stunning variegation. Without enough light, the plant will produce more green leaves to maximize chlorophyll for energy.
- Ideal Light: Provide bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is perfect. A west or south-facing window is also good, but ensure the plant is shielded from harsh, direct afternoon sun which can scorch the leaves.
- Signs of Too Little Light: Loss of variegation (more solid green leaves), leggy growth with large spaces between leaves, and slower growth.
- Signs of Too Much Light: Leaves turning pale, yellow, or developing crispy brown spots or edges. The rich colors may also look washed out.
If you only have lower light, consider supplementing with a grow light to keep the colors vibrant. About 6-8 hours of good indirect light daily is a great target.
Watering And Humidity
Overwatering is the fastest way to harm your philodendron. These plants prefer to partially dry out between waterings.
Watering Schedule
Do not water on a strict schedule. Instead, check the soil moisture.
- Insert your finger about 2 inches into the soil.
- If the top 2 inches feel dry, it’s time to water.
- Water thoroughly until water flows freely from the drainage holes.
- Empty the saucer underneath after 15 minutes to prevent root rot.
In warmer months, this might be once a week. In winter, it could be every two weeks or less. The plant will use water more slowly when growth slows.
Humidity Preferences
As a tropical plant, it appreciates higher humidity but is adaptable to average home humidity (around 40-50%).
- Ideal Humidity: 60% or higher.
- Boosting Humidity: Use a humidifier, place the pot on a pebble tray with water, or group it with other plants. Misting is less effective and can promote fungal issues if overdone.
- Signs of Low Humidity: Brown, crispy leaf tips are the most common indicator.
Soil And Potting
The right soil mix ensures good root health by balancing moisture retention and drainage.
A well-aerated, chunky potting mix is essential. A standard houseplant soil is often too dense and retains to much water. You can make your own mix:
- 2 parts high-quality indoor potting soil
- 1 part perlite or pumice
- 1 part orchid bark or coconut coir
This creates a loose, airy medium that allows water to drain quickly while retaining some moisture and nutrients. Repot your Burgundy Princess every 1-2 years in spring, or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot. Always choose a pot with drainage holes.
Temperature And Environment
Keep your plant in a warm, stable environment. Avoid sudden temperature changes and drafts.
- Ideal Temperature: Between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C).
- Minimum Temperature: Do not let it sit in temperatures below 55°F (13°C) for extended periods, as cold damage can occur.
- Drafts: Keep it away from heating and air conditioning vents, drafty windows, and exterior doors.
Fertilizing For Growth And Color
Feeding your plant supports strong growth and can enhance leaf color. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer.
- During the active growing season (spring and summer), fertilize once a month.
- Use a balanced fertilizer (with an equal N-P-K ratio like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) diluted to half the recommended strength.
- In fall and winter, reduce fertilizing to once every 6-8 weeks or stop altogether as growth slows.
Over-fertilizing can lead to salt buildup in the soil, which causes brown leaf tips and root damage. Flush the soil with plain water every few months to prevent this.
Pruning and Propagation
Regular pruning maintains a attractive shape and provides cuttings to create new plants.
How To Prune Your Plant
Pruning encourages bushier growth. You can remove any leaves that are damaged, yellowing, or completely reverted to solid green (if you wish to encourage more variegation).
- Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears.
- Cut the stem just above a leaf node (the small bump on the stem where a leaf attaches).
- You can also trim back any excessively long or leggy stems to a node to promote new growth from lower down on the plant.
Propagating Burgundy Princess Philodendron
The easiest way to propagate is via stem cuttings in water or moss. This is best done in spring or early summer.
Step-by-Step Propagation in Water
- Select a healthy stem with at least 2-3 leaves and a few visible nodes.
- Make a clean cut just below a node using sterilized tools.
- Remove any leaves that would be submerged in water.
- Place the cutting in a jar of room-temperature water, ensuring the node is underwater.
- Place in bright, indirect light and change the water every 5-7 days.
- Roots should begin to appear in 2-4 weeks. Once they are a few inches long, pot the cutting in a well-draining soil mix.
You can also propagate directly in a moist sphagnum moss or a perlite mix, which sometimes encourages stronger initial root systems.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with good care, you might encounter some issues. Here’s how to identify and fix them.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellow leaves can have several causes.
- Overwatering: This is the most common cause. Check your soil moisture and ensure the pot drains well. Let the soil dry out more between waterings.
- Underwatering: While less common, consistently dry soil can also cause yellowing, usually starting at the edges.
- Nutrient Deficiency: Older leaves turning yellow could indicate a need for fertilizer, especially nitrogen.
- Natural Aging: It’s normal for the oldest leaf on the plant to occasionally yellow and die off as part of the plant’s growth cycle.
Brown Leaf Edges Or Tips
Brown, crispy edges are usually an environmental issue.
- Low Humidity: Increase ambient humidity around the plant.
- Over-fertilization: Flush the soil with water to remove excess salts and reduce fertilizer frequency.
- Tap Water: Chemicals like fluoride and chlorine in tap water can cause tip burn. Using filtered or distilled water, or simply leaving tap water out overnight before watering, can help.
Loss Of Variegation (Reverting)
If your plant starts producing mostly or entirely green leaves, it’s reverting. This happens because the green parts of the leaf have more chlorophyll and are more efficient at producing energy, especially in lower light.
- Increase Light: Move the plant to a brighter location with plenty of indirect light.
- Prune: Cut back the stems that have produced fully green leaves to just above a node with variegation. This encourages the plant to put out new growth from that point, which has a better chance of being variegated.
It’s important to note that some fluctuation in variegation is normal, but a trend toward all-green needs correction.
Pests And Diseases
Keep an eye out for common houseplant pests.
- Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing and tiny stippling marks on leaves. Wipe leaves regularly and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses in leaf axils and on stems. Remove with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
- Fungus Gnats: Small black flies around the soil. They indicate overly moist soil. Let the soil dry more between waterings and use yellow sticky traps.
- Root Rot: Caused by chronic overwatering. Signs include wilting, yellowing leaves, and a foul smell from the soil. You may need to repot, trimming away any black, mushy roots.
Styling and Display Ideas
The Burgundy Princess’s dramatic foliage makes it a stunning standalone statement piece. Here are some ideas for showcasing it.
- Statement Pot: Plant it in a simple, elegant pot that complements its dark leaves—think matte black, terracotta, or cream-colored ceramic. This lets the plant be the star.
- Group Planting: Place it among plants with lighter green or solid-colored foliage to make its variegation pop. Pairing it with a Philodendron Brasil or a neon pothos creates beautiful contrast.
- Height and Structure: As it grows taller, consider using a small moss pole or coir stick for support. This encourages larger leaf growth and maintains an upright, tidy form.
- Tabletop Centerpiece: A younger, smaller plant makes a beautiful living centerpiece for a dining or coffee table, provided the light is sufficient.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is The Burgundy Princess Philodendron Toxic?
Yes, like all philodendrons, the Burgundy Princess contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. It can cause oral irritation, drooling, and digestive upset. Keep it out of reach of curious pets and children.
How Fast Does A Burgundy Princess Philodendron Grow?
It has a moderate growth rate. With ideal care—good light, proper watering, and regular feeding—you can expect several new leaves per growing season. Growth will slow or pause during the winter months.
Why Are The New Leaves On My Burgundy Princess Small?
Small new leaves can be caused by insufficient light, a lack of nutrients, or the plant being root-bound. Assess your light situation first, then consider if it’s time to fertilize or repot into a slightly larger container.
Can I Encourage More Pink Or Burgundy Color?
The amount of color is largely determined by genetics and light. Providing bright, indirect light is the best way to support vibrant variegation. Some growers believe that slightly stressing the plant (e.g., letting it dry a bit more than usual) can intensify colors, but this must be done cautiously to avoid harm.
Where Can I Buy A Burgundy Princess Philodendron?
They are available at many specialty plant nurseries, large garden centers, and through numerous online plant shops. When purchasing online, check seller reviews and inspect photos carefully to see the level of variegation on the specific plant being sold, as it can vary widely.
Caring for a burgundy princess philodendron is a rewarding experience. Its ever-changing foliage brings a unique and artistic element to any indoor space. By providing the right balance of light, water, and warmth, you’ll be able to enjoy its spectacular display for years to come. Remember to check the soil before watering, provide plenty of indirect light, and don’t worry to much about the occasional imperfect leaf—it’s all part of the plant’s character.