Crabgrass in summer thrives in thin lawns, so improving grass density is your best defense. If you are searching for how to get rid of crabgrass in the summer, you likely see those ugly, fast-growing weeds taking over your yard. The heat and sun give crabgrass an advantage, but you can fight back with the right steps.
Summer is the worst time for crabgrass because it loves hot weather. Your grass might struggle, but crabgrass spreads quickly. Don’t panic. You can control it without destroying your lawn.
This guide gives you clear, practical steps. You will learn to remove existing crabgrass and stop new seeds from sprouting. Let’s get started.
Understanding Summer Crabgrass Growth
Crabgrass is an annual weed. It dies each winter, but seeds survive in the soil. In summer, those seeds germinate and grow fast.
The plant has wide, light green leaves that spread low to the ground. It forms clumps that choke out your good grass. Summer heat makes it worse because crabgrass uses a special type of photosynthesis that works better in high temperatures.
Your lawn gets thin in summer from heat stress, drought, or foot traffic. This gives crabgrass open space to invade. Knowing this helps you target your efforts.
Why Summer Treatment Is Tricky
Applying strong chemicals in summer can burn your lawn. The heat stresses grass, so you must be careful. Hand pulling or spot treatments work better than broadcast applications.
Also, crabgrass seeds keep germinating through summer. One treatment might not stop all of them. You need a multi-step approach.
How To Get Rid Of Crabgrass In The Summer
Here is the main section. Follow these steps in order for the best results. Each step builds on the last one.
Step 1: Identify The Crabgrass Correctly
Make sure you are dealing with crabgrass, not a similar weed. Crabgrass has:
- Flat, wide blades that grow from a central point
- Light green or yellowish color
- Low, spreading growth habit
- Seed heads that look like fingers
Other weeds like dallisgrass or quackgrass look different. Dallisgrass has a purple base and grows in clumps. Quackgrass has long, narrow leaves and spreads by rhizomes. If you treat the wrong weed, your efforts fail.
Step 2: Hand Pull Small Infestations
For a few plants, hand pulling works great. Do it early in the morning when the soil is moist. Grab the base of the plant and pull gently but firmly. Try to get the entire root system.
If the root breaks, the plant can regrow. Use a weeding tool like a dandelion digger to loosen the soil first. This makes pulling easier.
Dispose of the pulled plants in the trash, not your compost pile. Crabgrass seeds can survive composting and spread later.
Step 3: Spot Treat With Selective Herbicide
For larger patches, use a selective post-emergent herbicide. Look for products containing quinclorac, fenoxaprop, or dithiopyr. These kill crabgrass without harming most lawn grasses.
Follow the label instructions exactly. Apply on a calm day with no wind to avoid drift. Do not apply when temperatures are above 85°F (30°C) because the chemical can stress your grass.
Spray only the crabgrass leaves. Avoid soaking the entire lawn. You might need a second application after 10–14 days for stubborn plants.
Step 4: Use A Natural Alternative
If you prefer non-chemical methods, try corn gluten meal. This natural product prevents seed germination. However, it works best as a pre-emergent in spring. In summer, its effectiveness is lower.
Another option is vinegar-based herbicides. Household vinegar (5% acetic acid) kills young crabgrass but not established plants. Horticultural vinegar (20% acetic acid) works better but can burn your skin. Wear gloves and goggles.
Boiling water also kills crabgrass. Pour it directly on the weed. This method works for small patches but can kill nearby grass too.
Step 5: Improve Lawn Density
Thick grass crowds out crabgrass. After removing existing weeds, focus on strengthening your lawn. Mow at the right height for your grass type. For cool-season grasses like fescue, keep it 3–4 inches tall. For warm-season grasses like Bermuda, keep it 1–2 inches.
Taller grass shades the soil, preventing crabgrass seeds from germinating. It also develops deeper roots, making it more drought-resistant.
Water deeply but infrequently. Give your lawn 1–1.5 inches of water per week, including rainfall. Water in the early morning to reduce evaporation and disease risk.
Step 6: Overseed In Late Summer Or Early Fall
Overseeding fills in thin areas. For cool-season lawns, late summer or early fall is the best time. The soil is warm, and air temperatures are cooler, which helps seed germination.
Choose a grass seed that matches your existing lawn. Spread it evenly over bare spots. Keep the soil moist until the new grass is established. This takes about 2–3 weeks.
Do not apply pre-emergent herbicide when overseeding. It will kill the new grass seeds too. Wait until the new grass has been mowed 3–4 times before using any weed preventer.
Preventing Future Crabgrass Problems
Stopping crabgrass before it starts is easier than removing it. Use these prevention strategies.
Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide In Spring
Pre-emergent herbicides create a barrier in the soil that kills crabgrass seeds as they germinate. Apply it in early spring when soil temperatures reach 55°F (13°C) for several days.
Look for products with prodiamine or dithiopyr. Follow the label for timing and rates. A second application 6–8 weeks later extends protection through summer.
Remember, pre-emergent does not kill existing crabgrass. It only prevents new seeds from growing.
Maintain Proper Fertilization
Healthy grass crowds out weeds. Fertilize your lawn based on soil test results. In general, cool-season lawns need fertilizer in early fall and late spring. Warm-season lawns need it in late spring and summer.
Use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer. Avoid high-nitrogen quick-release products in summer because they can burn grass and encourage crabgrass.
Do not over-fertilize. Excess nitrogen makes grass grow too fast, weakening its root system. This creates openings for crabgrass.
Mow Correctly
Mowing too short stresses grass and invites crabgrass. Follow the one-third rule: never cut more than one-third of the grass blade at once. If your grass is 4 inches tall, mow it to 3 inches.
Keep mower blades sharp. Dull blades tear grass, leaving it vulnerable to disease and weeds. Sharpen blades at least once per season.
Leave grass clippings on the lawn. They return nutrients to the soil and do not cause thatch buildup. Clippings also shade the soil slightly, reducing crabgrass germination.
Water Wisely
Deep, infrequent watering encourages deep roots. Shallow, frequent watering encourages shallow roots and crabgrass growth. Water your lawn only when it shows signs of stress, like wilting or a blue-gray color.
Use a rain gauge to measure how much water your sprinkler delivers. Place a tuna can or similar container on the lawn and time how long it takes to fill. Adjust your watering schedule accordingly.
Water in the early morning, between 4 AM and 10 AM. This reduces evaporation and gives grass time to dry before night, preventing disease.
Common Mistakes To Avoid
Many homeowners make these errors when fighting summer crabgrass. Avoid them for better results.
Applying Too Much Herbicide
More is not better. Over-applying herbicide can damage your lawn and harm the environment. Always follow label rates. Use a sprayer that delivers accurate amounts.
If you are unsure, start with a lower rate and repeat if needed. It is safer to under-treat and reapply than to over-treat and kill your grass.
Treating During Heat Waves
Do not apply herbicides when temperatures exceed 90°F (32°C). The chemical can volatilize and drift to non-target plants. It can also stress your lawn, causing yellowing or dieback.
Wait for a cooler day or apply in the evening when temperatures drop. Check the weather forecast before spraying.
Ignoring Soil Health
Crabgrass thrives in compacted, poor soil. Aerate your lawn in fall or spring to relieve compaction. This improves water infiltration and root growth.
Test your soil pH every 2–3 years. Most grasses prefer a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. If your soil is too acidic or alkaline, add lime or sulfur to adjust it.
Healthy soil grows healthy grass that naturally resists weeds.
Pulling Too Late
Once crabgrass produces seed heads, pulling it can spread seeds. The seeds are tiny and easily scatter. If you see seed heads, cut them off carefully and dispose of them in a sealed bag before pulling the plant.
Alternatively, use a herbicide that kills the plant before it seeds. This prevents the next generation.
When To Call A Professional
If your lawn is heavily infested, consider hiring a lawn care company. They have access to stronger products and equipment. They also know the best timing for your area.
Professional treatment costs money but saves time and frustration. Get quotes from at least two companies and ask about their approach to summer crabgrass control.
You can also ask for a spot treatment if you only have a few problem areas. This is cheaper than a full lawn application.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Kill Crabgrass In Summer Without Chemicals?
Yes, hand pulling works for small patches. Boiling water and vinegar can also kill young plants. However, these methods are less effective on established crabgrass and may require repeated efforts.
Will Crabgrass Die On Its Own In Summer?
No, crabgrass thrives in summer heat. It will not die until the first frost in fall. By then, it has produced thousands of seeds that will germinate next year. Removing it now prevents future problems.
How Long Does It Take To Get Rid Of Crabgrass In Summer?
With spot treatment, you see results in 7–14 days. Hand pulling gives immediate removal. But complete control takes a full season because seeds keep germinating. Consistent effort is key.
Can I Mow Crabgrass To Control It?
Mowing alone does not kill crabgrass. It may slow growth but the plant survives. Mow at the correct height for your grass type, but do not rely on mowing alone for control.
What Is The Best Herbicide For Summer Crabgrass?
Quinclorac is highly effective for summer crabgrass control. It works on both young and mature plants. Always read the label and follow safety instructions.
Final Thoughts
Getting rid of crabgrass in summer takes patience and the right strategy. Start by identifying the weed, then remove it by hand or with spot treatments. After removal, focus on improving lawn density through proper mowing, watering, and overseeding.
Prevention is the best long-term solution. Apply pre-emergent in spring and maintain a healthy lawn year-round. With consistent care, you can keep crabgrass from taking over your yard.
Remember, a thick, healthy lawn is your strongest defense. Every step you take to strengthen your grass makes it harder for crabgrass to survive. You can win this battle one step at a time.