Learning how to grow asparagus from cutting is a less common method than planting crowns, but it is a test of patience with specific steps. This approach involves propagating new plants from the root cuttings of an existing asparagus plant, offering a cost-effective way to expand your patch.
It requires careful handling and a longer timeline to harvest. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from taking the cuttings to caring for your mature plants.
How To Grow Asparagus From Cutting
Before you begin, it’s crucial to understand what an asparagus “cutting” actually is. Unlike plants like tomatoes or herbs, you cannot propagate asparagus from a stem placed in water. The term “cutting” here refers to a section of the plant’s root system, specifically the crown.
This method is technically growing asparagus from root division. You need an established, healthy asparagus plant that is at least three years old. Attempting this with younger plants can damage or kill them.
The best time to take these root cuttings is in early spring, just as the plant is coming out of dormancy, or in late fall after the ferns have died back. This timing gives the divisions the best chance to establish themselves without the stress of active top growth.
Gathering Your Tools And Materials
Having the right tools ready makes the process smoother and helps prevent damage to the parent plant. You won’t need anything too specialized, but cleanliness is paramount to avoid introducing disease.
Here is what you should gather:
- A sharp, clean spade or garden fork.
- Pruning shears or a sharp knife, sterilized with rubbing alcohol.
- A bucket of water for rinsing roots.
- Well-rotted compost or aged manure.
- A tarp or large piece of cardboard to work on.
- Containers with drainage holes or a prepared garden bed for replanting.
Step-By-Step Process For Taking Root Cuttings
Follow these steps carefully to successfully divide your asparagus crown and create new plants.
Step 1: Preparing the Parent Plant
If it’s early spring, wait until you see the first tiny spears emerging. In the fall, wait until the ferny foliage has turned yellow or brown. Use your spade to carefully dig in a wide circle around the plant, about 6-8 inches away from the center.
Lift the entire crown and root system out of the ground, trying to keep it intact. Gently shake off excess soil and rinse the roots with water so you can see the structure clearly.
Step 2: Dividing the Crown
Place the crown on your tarp. Examine it closely. You will see a mass of thick, fleshy roots and buds (where the spears emerge). Your goal is to divide this mass into sections, each with at least two or three healthy buds and a good cluster of roots attached.
Using your sterilized knife or shears, carefully cut the crown into sections. Make clean cuts and avoid crushing the roots. Some gardeners prefer to gently pull the crown apart by hand where natural divisions occur, then trim any torn roots cleanly.
Step 3: Immediate Care for the Cuttings
Once divided, the cuttings are vulnerable to drying out. If you are not planting them immediately, wrap them in damp newspaper or burlap and store them in a cool, shaded place. Do not leave them exposed to sun or wind.
It’s best to replant them within a few hours. You can also temporarily pot them in moist sand or potting mix if a delay is unavoidable.
Preparing The Planting Site
Asparagus is a perennial that will stay in the same spot for 15 years or more, so site preparation is an investment. Choose a location with full sun—at least 8 hours of direct light per day. The soil must be well-draining; asparagus roots will rot in soggy conditions.
Soil Requirements and Bed Preparation
Asparagus thrives in fertile, slightly sandy loam with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5. A month before planting, test your soil and amend it accordingly.
To prepare the bed:
- Remove all weeds and grass from the area.
- Dig a trench that is 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. The length depends on how many cuttings you have; space them 18 inches apart.
- Mix the excavated soil with a generous amount of compost and well-rotted manure. You can also add a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
- Create a 4-inch mound of this amended soil along the bottom of the trench.
Planting Your Asparagus Cuttings
Now, it’s time to place your cuttings in their new home. Proper depth and spacing are critical for healthy growth.
Place each root cutting on top of the mound in the trench, spreading the roots out evenly and downward. The buds (eyes) should be facing upward. Cover the cuttings with 2-3 inches of the amended soil.
As the plants begin to grow and send up spears, gradually fill in the trench with more soil over the course of the first growing season. By autumn, the trench should be filled level with the surrounding soil.
Water the planted cuttings thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets around the roots. Maintain consistent moisture, but do not overwater.
Caring For Young Asparagus Plants
The first two years are about building a strong root system, not harvesting spears. This patience is the key to a productive bed for decades.
Watering and Mulching Schedule
Water deeply once a week, providing about 1-2 inches of water if rainfall is insufficient. Soaker hoses are ideal as they deliver water directly to the roots and keep foliage dry, reducing disease risk.
Apply a 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch, like straw or shredded leaves, around the plants. This conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and moderates soil temperature. Replenish the mulch as needed.
Weed Control and Fertilization
Weeds compete fiercely with young asparagus. Hand-pull weeds regularly, being careful not to disturb the shallow roots. The mulch layer will significantly reduce this chore.
In early spring of the second year, side-dress the plants with compost or a balanced fertilizer. Repeat this feeding after the harvest season ends in later years.
The Waiting Period: Growth Expectations
In the first year, the plants will produce thin, wispy ferns. This is normal. Allow these ferns to grow unimpeded; they are photosynthesisizing and sending energy down to the roots.
In the second year, the spears will be thicker and the ferns more robust. Still, do not harvest. Some gardeners may take a few spears in the third spring, but for plants grown from cuttings, it’s safer to wait until the fourth year for a full harvest.
This long wait ensures the plant has stored enough energy to produce abundant spears year after year without being weakened.
Common Problems And Solutions
Even with care, you may encounter some issues. Here’s how to identify and manage common asparagus problems.
Pests: Asparagus Beetles and More
The most common pest is the asparagus beetle. They are small, blue-black beetles with cream-colored spots or orange eggs laid on the spears and ferns.
To control them:
- Hand-pick beetles and eggs daily and drop them into soapy water.
- Keep the area clean of plant debris in fall.
- As a last resort, use insecticidal soap or neem oil, applying in the evening to avoid harming beneficial insects.
Diseases: Rust and Fusarium Crown Rot
Rust appears as orange pustules on the ferns. Fusarium rot causes spears to wilt and crowns to rot. Prevention is the best strategy.
Ensure good air circulation by proper spacing. Avoid overhead watering. Remove and destroy any infected ferns at the end of the season. Choose resistant varieties if starting a new bed and consider crop rotation if possible, though difficult with a perennial crop.
Harvesting Your Homegrown Asparagus
Finally, after years of care, you get to enjoy the rewards. Harvest in the fourth spring, when spears are about 6-8 inches tall and before the tips start to loosen.
Use a sharp knife or asparagus harvester to cut the spear at or just below the soil surface. Be careful not to damage neighboring spears that are still underground. The harvest period lasts for 6-8 weeks.
Stop harvesting when the majority of spears become thinner than a pencil. This signals the plant needs to recharge by growing its ferns for the rest of the summer.
Long-Term Maintenance Of Your Asparagus Bed
After the harvest season ends, let the ferns grow tall. They will provide energy for next year’s crop. In late fall or early winter, after the ferns have turned brown, cut them down to about 2 inches above the ground and remove them from the garden to disrupt pest and disease cycles.
Each spring, before the spears emerge, top-dress the bed with a fresh layer of compost. This annual feeding supports continuous productivty. With proper care, your asparagus bed, started from humble cuttings, can remain productive for two decades or more.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can You Really Grow Asparagus From a Cutting?
Yes, but it’s important to clarify the terminology. You cannot grow asparagus from a stem cutting. The successful method uses a root division or cutting from an established plant’s crown, containing both roots and buds.
How Long Does It Take to Grow Asparagus From a Root Division?
From planting the root cutting, you must wait 3 to 4 years before beginning a full harvest. The first two years are for root establishment, with a possible light harvest in the third year, and full harvest commencing in the fourth spring.
What Is the Difference Between Asparagus Crowns and Cuttings?
Purchased asparagus crowns are typically 1-year-old dormant plants grown from seed. A “cutting” or division comes from separating a mature, older plant. Both methods require similar planting and care, but starting from a division may add a year to the establishment phase compared to a robust 1-year crown.
Is It Better to Grow Asparagus From Seed or Cutting?
Growing from seed is the most affordable but takes the longest, adding an extra year or two. Using crowns from a nursery is the most common and reliable method for home gardeners. Propagating from cuttings is best for those who already have a healthy asparagus plant and wish to clone it for free, accepting the longer timeline and care required for the divisions to thrive.
How Do You Overwinter Asparagus Cuttings?
If you take divisions in the fall but cannot plant them immediately, you can overwinter them. Bury the root cuttings in a box of slightly moist sand or peat moss. Store the box in a cool, dark place like a root cellar or unheated garage where temperatures stay between 34-40°F. Check periodically to ensure the medium does not dry out completely or become soggy. Plant them in prepared trenches in early spring.