Learning how to store elephant ears is a key gardening skill for anyone living in a cooler climate. Properly storing elephant ear bulbs through the winter ensures they return vigorous and healthy the following spring. These tropical plants, known botanically as Colocasia and Alocasia, will not survive freezing temperatures in the ground. With the right process, you can protect your bulbs and enjoy their dramatic foliage year after year.
This guide provides a complete, step-by-step approach. We will cover when to dig them up, how to cure and prepare the bulbs, and the best storage methods. You’ll also learn how to troubleshoot common problems and get your bulbs growing again when warm weather returns.
How To Store Elephant Ears
The core process of storing elephant ears involves digging up the bulbs, cleaning and drying them, and placing them in a cool, dry location for the winter. While it sounds straightforward, each step is important for success. Rushing or skipping a phase can lead to rot or desiccation, resulting in the loss of your prized plants.
Different types of elephant ears may have slightly different storage needs. The most common garden varieties are Colocasia, which often have larger, downward-pointing leaves, and Alocasia, which frequently have upward-pointing, shield-shaped leaves. Both require similar winter care, but Alocasia bulbs (more accurately called corms or rhizomes) can be a bit more sensitive to moisture.
When To Dig Up Elephant Ear Bulbs
Timing is the first critical factor. Digging too early can interrupt the bulb’s natural energy-gathering process, while waiting too long risks frost damage.
The best indicator is the plant itself. After the first light frost in autumn, the leaves will begin to yellow and die back. This is the plant’s signal that it is entering dormancy. You should plan to dig up the bulbs after this die-back begins but before the first hard frost penetrates the soil. A hard freeze can damage the bulb tissue, making it susceptible to rot in storage.
In most regions, this window falls in late September through October. If you are unsure, check your local frost dates and err on the side of caution. It’s better to dig them up a little early if a sudden cold snap is forcasted.
Signs Your Elephant Ears Are Ready for Storage
- The foliage has turned mostly yellow or brown.
- Growth has completely halted.
- Nighttime temperatures are consistently dipping near or below freezing.
- The first light frost has occured.
Step-By-Step Digging And Preparation
Once you’ve determined it’s time, gather your tools: a garden fork or spade, pruning shears, gloves, and a soft brush. Follow these numbered steps for the best results.
- Cut Back the Foliage: Using your shears, cut the stems down to about 2-3 inches above the soil level. This makes handling the bulb much easier and helps focus the plant’s remaining energy into the bulb.
- Dig Carefully: Insert your garden fork or spade into the soil about 12 inches away from the base of the plant. Gently loosen the soil in a circle around the bulb to avoid piercing or slicing it. Elephant ear bulbs can be quite large and deep, so dig down at least a foot.
- Lift the Clump: Work your tool under the bulb clump and gently lift it from the soil. Shake off the excess soil, but do not wash it with water at this stage.
- Inspect and Divide (Optional): This is a good time to check the health of the bulb and see if it has produced smaller offsets. You can gently separate these smaller bulbs to propagate new plants. Ensure each division has a piece of the central growing point or “eye.”
Curing And Cleaning The Bulbs
This step is non-negotiable for successful storage. Curing allows the outer layer of the bulb to dry and toughen, forming a protective barrier. Skipping this leads to mold.
After digging, place the bulbs in a single layer in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated area. A garage, garden shed, or covered porch is ideal. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scald them. Let them cure for about one to three days. The cut stems should dry and callous over, and the remaining soil should become dry and easy to brush off.
Once cured, take your soft brush and gently remove all the dried soil. Be thorough, as leftover soil can harbor pathogens or pests. At this point, you can also do a more detailed inspection. Look for any soft spots, cuts, or signs of pest damage.
Treating Damaged Bulbs Before Storage
If you find minor cuts or bruises, you can dust the area with a fungicide powder like sulfur or garden lime. This helps prevent fungal infection during storage. For any soft, mushy, or severely damaged spots, use a clean, sharp knife to cut the bad tissue away. Dust the cut surface with fungicide and allow it to dry for an additional day before storing.
Choosing The Right Storage Medium
The goal of storage is to keep the bulbs dormant, slightly hydrated, and free from rot. The storage medium you choose helps regulate moisture. Here are the most effective options:
- Peat Moss: A classic choice. It’s slightly acidic and retains moisture well without being wet. Ensure the peat is barely damp, not soggy.
- Vermiculite or Perlite: These inorganic minerals are excellent for aeration and preventing moisture buildup. They are a good choice if you tend to over-water or have high humidity in your storage area.
- Wood Shavings or Shredded Paper: Dry, untreated wood shavings (like pine) or shredded newspaper can work. They provide insulation and air pockets.
- Coco Coir: A sustainable alternative to peat moss with similar moisture-retention properties.
Avoid using soil from your garden or regular potting mix, as these can compact and may contain fungi or insects. Also, never store bulbs in sealed plastic bags without ventilation; this traps ethylene gas and moisture, guaranteeing rot.
The Ideal Storage Environment
Where you place your prepared bulbs is just as important as how you prepare them. The perfect storage location mimics a dormant bulb’s natural underground winter conditions.
You need a place that is dark, cool, and has moderate humidity. The ideal temperature range is between 50°F and 60°F (10°C to 15°C). A basement, unheated garage (that doesn’t freeze), or a cool closet often works well. Avoid areas near furnaces, water heaters, or windows where temperatures can fluctuate widely.
Check the humidity if you can. Too dry, and the bulbs will shrivel; too damp, and they will rot. Aim for around 60-70% relative humidity. A simple humidity gauge can be helpful.
Packaging Bulbs For Winter Storage
Now, it’s time to pack your bulbs away. You have a few container options, each with its own merits.
- Cardboard Boxes: A simple and effective choice. Place a 2-inch layer of your slightly dampened storage medium (like peat moss) in the bottom of the box. Set the bulbs on top, ensuring they do not touch each other. Cover them completely with more medium. You can add multiple layers, separated by medium. Poke a few small holes in the box for air circulation.
- Paper Bags or Mesh Bags: For smaller quantities, you can place a bulb in a paper bag with some peat moss. Mesh onion or citrus bags are excellent as they provide maximum airflow.
- Plastic Totes with Lids (Vented): If using a plastic container, it is crucial not to seal it tightly. Use a drill to make several small ventilation holes in the lid and sides. Follow the same layering technique as with the cardboard box.
Label your containers with the plant variety and the date. This prevents confusion in the spring, especially if you’re storing multiple types.
Ongoing Winter Maintenance Checks
Storing elephant ears is not a “set it and forget it” task. You should inspect your bulbs approximately once a month throughout the winter.
During your check, look for two main issues: shriveling and rot. If a bulb feels soft, mushy, or shows mold, remove it immediately to prevent the problem from spreading. If the bulb is just slightly soft in one area, you can cut it out, treat with fungicide, and let it dry before returning it to storage.
If bulbs are starting to shrivel and wrinkle, they are too dry. Lightly mist the storage medium with water—just enough to dampen it, not soak it. Conversely, if you see condensation on the container or the medium feels wet, leave the lid off for a day or two to allow excess moisture to evaporate. You may need to replace the storage medium entirely if it’s too damp.
Preparing Bulbs For Spring Replanting
As winter wanes and your last frost date approaches (typically 4-6 weeks before), it’s time to wake your bulbs up. This process gives them a head start on the growing season.
- Inspect and Clean: Remove the bulbs from storage and brush off the storage medium. Do a final inspection for health.
- Soak to Rehydrate: If bulbs appear shriveled, soak them in lukewarm water for 1-2 hours to plump them up. Do not exceed this time, as they can become waterlogged.
- Start Indoors (Optional but Recommended): Plant the bulbs in pots with fresh, well-draining potting mix. Place them in a warm, bright location indoors. Water lightly to stimulate growth. This allows you to have small plants ready to go into the garden once all danger of frost has passed.
- Harden Off: If you started them indoors, acclimate the young plants to outdoor conditions over 7-10 days before transplanting them into the garden.
Troubleshooting Common Storage Problems
Even with careful attention, issues can arise. Here’s how to handle the most frequent storage challenges.
Bulbs Are Rotting in Storage
Rot is usually caused by excess moisture, insufficient curing, or damage at digging time. Ensure bulbs are fully cured, storage medium is only slightly damp, and containers have adequate ventilation. Always remove rotting bulbs promptly.
Bulbs Are Shriveling and Drying Out
This indicates the storage environment is too dry. The storage medium should feel like a barely damp sponge. Lightly mist the medium and consider moving the container to a slightly more humid location, like a basement corner.
Bulbs Sprouted Too Early
If bulbs begin to sprout in storage, it means the temperature is too warm. Move them to a cooler spot immediately. You can carefully break off the very soft, pale sprout, as it will likely die anyway. The bulb will usually produce a new, healthy shoot when planted properly. If sprouting occurs within a month of your last frost, you can go ahead and pot them up indoors.
FAQ About Storing Elephant Ears
Here are answers to some common questions about elephant ear winter care.
Can you leave elephant ears in the ground over winter?
Only in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 11, where the ground does not freeze. In colder zones, the bulbs will freeze and die if left in the soil. In marginal zones, a very thick layer of mulch (up to 12 inches) might offer protection, but digging them up is the safer method.
How long can you store elephant ear bulbs?
Properly stored, elephant ear bulbs can remain dormant for the entire winter period, typically 4-6 months. They are not meant for multi-year storage without a growing cycle in between, as they will eventually exhaust their energy reserves.
Should you water elephant ear bulbs in storage?
No, you do not water the bulbs directly. The goal is to maintain slight moisture in the storage medium surrounding them. If the medium dries out completely, you can give it a very light misting during a monthly check.
What is the difference between storing Colocasia vs. Alocasia?
The process is largely the same. However, Alocasia bulbs are often more prone to rotting and may prefer a slightly drier storage medium, like vermiculite. Colocasia bulbs are generally more forgiving of a bit more moisture.
Can you store elephant ears as houseplants?
Yes, you can choose not to force dormancy. Keep the plant in a pot in a bright, warm location indoors, and water it sparingly over winter. It may lose some leaves but will resume active growth with increased light and water in spring. This is a good option for smaller bulbs or in very mild climates.
By following this detailed guide on how to store elephant ears, you can protect your investment and ensure these stunning tropical plants thrive in your garden for many seasons. The key takeaways are proper timing, thorough curing, careful packaging, and regular winter checks. With a little effort this fall, you’ll be rewarded with lush, dramatic foliage next summer.