Philodendron bipennifolium, or the horsehead philodendron, is known for its distinctive leaves that change shape dramatically as the plant climbs. This unique vining plant is a favorite among collectors for its fascinating foliage and manageable care requirements. If you’re looking for a statement plant with a personality, this might be the one for you.
Its leaves start out small and simple, but as the plant matures and finds a support to climb, they transform into large, glossy, saddle- or violin-shaped masterpieces. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to keep your Philodendron bipennifolium thriving.
Philodendron Bipennifolium
The Philodendron bipennifolium is a botanical wonder native to the tropical regions of South America, particularly Brazil. It belongs to the vast Araceae family, which includes other popular houseplants like Monstera and Peace Lilies. Its most captivating feature is its foliage, which undergoes a remarkable metamorphosis, a process known as heteroblasty.
Juvenile plants produce smaller, heart-shaped leaves. However, once the plant begins to climb and reaches maturity, the leaves develop deep lobes and elongated tips, resembling a horse’s head, a violin, or even butterfly wings. This dramatic change is a survival adaptation, allowing the plant to better capture light in the dense rainforest canopy.
Key Characteristics And Identification
To properly identify and appreciate your Philodendron bipennifolium, look for these specific traits.
- Leaf Shape: Mature leaves are deeply lobed, with two prominent forward-facing points and a central “waist,” creating a distinctive silhouette that can be over 18 inches long.
- Leaf Texture and Color: Leaves are semi-glossy, smooth, and a vibrant medium to deep green. New growth often emerges with a reddish or bronze tint.
- Growth Habit: It is a vigorous climber (hemiepiphyte). In nature, it uses its aerial roots to attach to tree trunks. In your home, it will need a moss pole or similar support to achieve its classic mature form.
- Stems and Nodes: The stems are long and vining, with visible nodes where leaves and aerial roots emerge. The aerial roots are key for climbing and can absorb moisture and nutrients.
Ideal Growing Conditions
Recreating a slice of its tropical homeland is the secret to a healthy Philodendron bipennifolium. Here are the core elements it needs.
Light Requirements
This plant prefers bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight it would receive under the forest canopy.
- Best Location: An east or west-facing window is ideal. A few feet back from a south-facing window with a sheer curtain also works well.
- Signs of Too Much Light: Leaves may develop yellow or brown scorch marks, or the vibrant green color may fade and look washed out.
- Signs of Too Little Light: Growth becomes leggy, with long spaces between leaves (internodal stretching). New leaves will be smaller and may lack the characteristic lobing, reverting to a more juvenile shape.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, it thrives in warm, humid environments. Consistent conditions prevent stress.
- Temperature: Maintain a range between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid cold drafts, air conditioning vents, and sudden temperature drops below 60°F (15°C).
- Humidity: Aim for 60% humidity or higher. While it can adapt to average household humidity (around 40-50%), it will truly flourish with extra moisture in the air.
To increase humidity, you can use a humidifier, place the plant on a pebble tray filled with water, or group it with other humidity-loving plants. Misting provides a very temporary boost and is not as effective as other methods.
Complete Care Guide
Caring for a Philodendron bipennifolium is straightforward once you understand its basic needs. Follow these step-by-step instructions for watering, feeding, and soil management.
Watering Your Plant Correctly
Overwatering is the most common cause of problems. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy.
- Check the Soil: Before watering, insert your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If the top 1-2 inches feel dry, it’s time to water.
- Water Thoroughly: Water the soil slowly and evenly until you see excess water drain freely from the bottom of the pot.
- Empty the Cachepot: Always discard any water that collects in the saucer or outer pot after 15-20 minutes. Never let the plant sit in standing water.
- Adjust for Season: Water more frequently in the spring and summer (active growth period) and reduce watering in the fall and winter when growth slows.
Soil And Potting Mix
The right soil mix is crucial for root health. It needs to retain some moisture while allowing excellent aeration and drainage.
A good homemade mix could include:
- 2 parts high-quality potting soil
- 1 part perlite or pumice
- 1 part orchid bark or coconut coir
This combination prevents compaction and mimics the loose, airy structure of forest floor debris. Ensure your pot has ample drainage holes.
Fertilizing For Optimal Growth
Regular feeding supports the plant’s vigorous growth, especially during the growing season.
- Type: Use a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) or a formula specifically for foliage plants.
- Frequency: Fertilize every 4-6 weeks from early spring through early fall.
- Method: Dilute the fertilizer to half the strength recommended on the package. Apply to moist soil to avoid root burn.
- Winter Rest: Stop fertilizing in the late fall and winter months when the plant is not actively growing.
Support and Training
To encourage the large, lobed leaves that make the Philodendron bipennifolium so special, you must provide a support structure for it to climb. This mimics its natural growth habit.
Choosing And Installing A Moss Pole
A moss pole is the ideal support because it retains moisture, which the plant’s aerial roots can attach to and absorb from.
- Select a moss pole that is tall enough to accommodate future growth, or choose one that can be extended.
- Insert the pole into the pot at the time of repotting, being careful not to damage the root ball. Place it close to the main stem.
- Gently tie the plant’s main stem to the pole using soft plant ties, velcro tape, or even strips of old nylon. Do not tie it tightly; allow room for the stem to thicken.
- Keep the moss pole damp by spraying it when you water the plant. This will encourage the aerial roots to attach naturally.
Pruning And Maintenance
Pruning helps maintain a desired shape, control size, and promote bushier growth.
- When to Prune: The best time is in the spring or early summer at the start of the active growing season.
- How to Prune: Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Cut just above a leaf node (the point on the stem where a leaf is attached).
- Encouraging Bushiness: Pruning the main stem’s tip will redirect energy to the lower nodes, potentially encouraging new side shoots to form.
- Removing Unhealthy Growth: Regularly remove any yellowing, damaged, or dead leaves to keep the plant healthy and looking its best.
Propagation Techniques
Propagating your Philodendron bipennifolium is a rewarding way to create new plants. The most reliable method is stem cuttings, either in water or sphagnum moss.
Step-by-Step Propagation In Water
- Identify a healthy stem with at least one node and 2-3 leaves.
- Using sterile tools, make a clean cut just below a node. The cutting should be 4-6 inches long.
- Remove any leaves that would be submerged in the water.
- Place the cutting in a jar of room-temperature water, ensuring the node is underwater but the leaves are not.
- Position the jar in bright, indirect light. Change the water every 5-7 days to keep it fresh.
- Roots should begin to appear from the node in 2-4 weeks. Once the roots are a few inches long, you can pot the cutting in soil.
Propagation In Sphagnum Moss
This method provides a moist, airy environment that can encourage faster root development for some plants.
- Prepare a container with pre-moistened sphagnum moss.
- Take a stem cutting as described above.
- Dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder (optional but can speed up the process).
- Bury the node in the damp moss.
- Cover the container with a clear plastic bag to create a humid mini-greenhouse, but open it occasionally for fresh air.
- Keep the moss consistently moist (not wet) and in bright, indirect light. Check for root development after 3-5 weeks.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with good care, you might encounter some issues. Here’s how to diagnose and fix common problems with Philodendron bipennifolium.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellow leaves can have several causes. It’s important to assess the pattern.
- Overwatering (Most Common): If multiple lower leaves turn yellow, often accompanied by wet soil, overwatering is likely. Check the roots for rot and adjust your watering schedule.
- Underwatering: If leaves are yellow, crispy, and curling, the plant may be thirsty. Check the soil moisture more frequently.
- Nutrient Deficiency: Older leaves turning pale yellow could indicate a need for fertilizer, especially nitrogen.
- Natural Aging: It’s normal for an occasional older leaf to yellow and die off as the plant grows.
Pests And Diseases
Keep an eye out for these common houseplant pests.
- Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing on leaves and stems, and tiny stippling marks. Increase humidity and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses in leaf axils and on stems. Remove with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
- Scale: Look like small, brown, bumpy shells attached to stems and the undersides of leaves. Scrape off gently and treat with horticultural oil.
- Root Rot: Caused by chronically wet soil. Symptoms include wilting, yellowing, and black, mushy roots. You must repot the plant, cutting away all rotten roots and using fresh, dry soil.
Repotting Your Philodendron Bipennifolium
Repotting is necessary every 1-2 years, or when the plant becomes root-bound. The best time to repot is in the spring.
- Signs It Needs Repotting: Roots growing out of the drainage holes, water draining through too quickly, slowed growth, or the plant becoming top-heavy.
- Choosing a New Pot: Select a pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one. A pot that is too large holds excess soil that stays wet and can lead to root rot.
- The Process: Gently remove the plant from its old pot. Loosen the root ball slightly and inspect the roots, trimming any that are black or mushy. Place it in the new pot with fresh potting mix at the same depth it was before. Water thoroughly.
- Aftercare: Keep the plant in a stable, slightly shadier spot for a week or two to recover from the stress of repotting before returning it to its usual location.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Philodendron Bipennifolium Toxic To Pets?
Yes, like all Philodendrons, the Philodendron bipennifolium contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested. It can cause oral irritation, drooling, and difficulty swallowing. Keep this plant out of reach of curious pets and children.
How Fast Does Horsehead Philodendron Grow?
Under ideal conditions of bright indirect light, warmth, and high humidity, the Philodendron bipennifolium is a moderately fast grower. During the spring and summer, you can expect several new leaves per month, especially if it is provided with a support to climb.
Why Are My Plant’s Leaves Not Splitting?
If your Philodendron bipennifolium is only producing small, heart-shaped leaves without lobes, it likely needs more light and a support structure. The mature, split-leaf form is triggered by the plant climbing in adequate bright, indirect light. Provide a moss pole and ensure it’s getting enough illumination.
Can I Grow Philodendron Bipennifolium Outdoors?
You can grow this plant outdoors year-round only in USDA hardiness zones 9b to 11, where temperatures rarely drop below 25°F. In other climates, it can enjoy a summer outdoors in a shaded, sheltered spot but must be brought inside well before the first frost. Always acclimate it gradually to outdoor conditions to avoid sunburn.
What’s The Difference Between Philodendron Bipennifolium And Philodendron Panduriforme?
These two are often confused. While similar, the Philodendron bipennifolium typically has more elongated, narrower lobes on its mature leaves that resemble a horse or violin head. Philodendron panduriforme tends to have broader, more rounded lobes, sometimes described as a fiddle or a rounded guitar shape. Care requirements for both are virtually identical.