The Philodendron ‘Lickety Split’ is recognized for its deeply lobed, glossy leaves that create a dramatic silhouette. This striking plant, a cultivar of the classic split-leaf philodendron, brings a bold, architectural feel to any indoor space. Its unique foliage and relatively easy care make it a favorite among both new and experienced plant enthusiasts.
If you’re looking for a statement houseplant that isn’t too fussy, the Lickety Split might be your perfect match. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to keep your plant thriving. We’ll cover light, water, soil, and all the other essential care details.
Philodendron Lickety Split
The Philodendron Lickety Split is a specific cultivated variety known botanically as *Philodendron bipinnatifidum* ‘Lickety Split’. It’s often confused with its close relatives, the *Monstera deliciosa* and other large-leafed philodendrons. However, its growth habit and leaf structure have distinct characteristics that set it apart.
This plant is primarily grown for its spectacular foliage. The leaves emerge on long, sturdy stalks directly from a central trunk-like stem. As each leaf matures, it develops those characteristic deep splits and lobes, giving it a feathery, almost palm-like appearance. The glossy green surface adds to its visual appeal, making it a natural focal point.
Origin And Background
Like many philodendrons, the Lickety Split traces its origins to the tropical regions of South America. It is a terrestrial plant, meaning it grows in the ground, unlike some vining philodendrons that are epiphytic. In its natural habitat, it can grow to be quite large, but indoors, its growth is more contained.
The ‘Lickety Split’ cultivar was selected for its particularly pronounced leaf splitting and compact growth habit compared to the standard species. Breeders aimed for a plant that delivered the dramatic look of a jungle specimen but was better suited for life inside a home or office.
Distinguishing Features
How can you tell you have a true Lickety Split? Look for these key features. The leaves are deeply dissected, with splits that go nearly to the central rib, creating multiple narrow segments. The leaf texture is glossy and somewhat leathery. New leaves often emerge with a reddish or bronze tint before hardening off to a deep green.
Unlike Monstera plants, the leaves of the Philodendron Lickety Split do not develop enclosed holes (fenestrations). The splits are always open from the edge inward. Also, its growth is more upright and clumping, whereas many Monsteras have a vining or spreading habit that requires support.
Growth Habit And Size
Indoors, a Philodendron Lickety Split can reach a height of 4 to 6 feet with a similar spread, given enough time and the right conditions. It grows from a central stem, with leaves arching outward. It’s not a fast grower, typically putting out several new leaves during the active growing season (spring and summer).
This moderate pace is actually benificial for indoor gardeners, as it means the plant won’t quickly outgrow its space. You can expect it to maintain a manageable size for years with only occasional pruning. The plant’s size makes it ideal for filling an empty corner or anchoring a room’s design.
Complete Care Guide
Caring for your Philodendron Lickety Split is straightforward once you understand its basic needs. It’s a resilient plant that forgives the occasional mistake, making it a great choice if you’re still building your plant care confidence. Consistency is more important than perfection.
Light Requirements
Light is the most critical factor for maintaining the health and split-leaf form of your philodendron. This plant thrives in bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is often ideal, providing gentle morning sun. A spot a few feet back from a south or west window, where the harsh afternoon rays are filtered, also works well.
Insufficient light will lead to problems. The plant may become leggy, with longer stems reaching for light. The new leaves will be smaller and have fewer, less pronounced splits. If you notice these signs, try moving your plant to a brighter location. Direct, hot sun can scorch the leaves, causing brown, crispy patches.
Artificial Light Options
If your home lacks natural bright light, don’t worry. Your Philodendron Lickety Split can adapt to growing under full-spectrum fluorescent or LED grow lights. Position the light source about 12 to 18 inches above the plant and keep it on for 12 to 14 hours a day to mimic a natural day cycle. This is a reliable way to ensure your plant gets the energy it needs.
Watering And Humidity
Watering correctly is key to preventing root rot, the most common issue with philodendrons. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. A good rule is to water thoroughly when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Stick your finger into the soil to check.
When you water, do so deeply until water flows freely from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture. Always empty the saucer or cache pot after 15-20 minutes to prevent the plant from sitting in standing water. Reduce watering frequency in the winter when growth slows.
Ideal Humidity Levels
As a tropical plant, the Philodendron Lickety Split appreciates higher humidity, around 50-60%. Average home humidity is often lower, especially with heating or air conditioning. You can increase humidity in several simple ways:
- Place a humidifier near your plant group.
- Set the pot on a pebble tray filled with water (ensure the pot sits above the water line).
- Group it with other plants to create a microclimate.
- Mist the leaves occasionally, though this is a temporary boost.
If the leaf tips turn brown and crispy, low humidity is a likely culprit. Increasing the moisture in the air will help prevent new damage.
Soil And Potting
The right soil mix provides a foundation for healthy roots. Your Philodendron Lickety Split needs a well-draining, aerated potting mix that retains some moisture without becoming compacted. A standard peat-based potting mix is a good start, but you should amend it to improve drainage.
A simple and effective recipe is to combine two parts regular potting mix with one part perlite and one part orchid bark. The perlite increases aeration, and the bark chunks create air pockets, mimicking the plant’s natural growing conditions. This mix prevents waterlogging and allows roots to breathe.
Choosing a Pot and Repotting
Always choose a pot with adequate drainage holes. Terracotta pots are excellent because they are porous, allowing soil to dry more evenly. Repot your Philodendron Lickety Split every 2-3 years, or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot or growing out of the drainage holes.
When repotting, select a new pot that is only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the old one. A pot that’s too large holds excess soil that stays wet for too long, risking root rot. Gently loosen the root ball when transferring, and place it in the new pot with fresh soil mix. The best time to repot is in the spring or early summer.
Fertilizing For Growth
Feeding your plant provides the nutrients it needs to produce those large, split leaves. During the active growing season (spring through early fall), fertilize your Philodendron Lickety Split once a month with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. A formula with an equal NPK ratio, like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20, works well.
Dilute the fertilizer to half the strength recommended on the package to avoid burning the roots. You do not need to fertilize during the late fall and winter months when the plant’s growth naturally pauses. An annual refresh of potting soil also provides some nutrients, reducing the need for heavy feeding.
Signs of over-fertilization include a white crust on the soil surface (salt buildup) and brown leaf tips. If this happens, flush the soil by running water through it for several minutes to leach out excess salts, and hold off on fertilizing for a few months.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with the best care, you might encounter an issue with your plant. Here’s how to identify and fix the most common problems for Philodendron Lickety Split.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellow leaves can have a few causes. The most common is overwatering. Check the soil moisture. If it’s consistently wet, let it dry out more between waterings and ensure your pot drains properly. Older leaves naturally yellow and die off occasionally; this is normal if it’s just one or two at a time.
Other causes include under-watering, nutrient deficiency, or a sudden draft. Assess your care routine to pinpoint the issue. Remove any yellow leaves to keep the plant looking tidy and to direct energy to healthy growth.
Brown Leaf Edges Or Tips
Brown, crispy edges are often a sign of low humidity or inconsistent watering. It can also be caused by too much direct sun or a buildup of salts and minerals from tap water or fertilizer. Increase humidity around your plant and try using filtered or distilled water for both watering and misting.
Trim off the brown parts with clean scissors, following the natural shape of the leaf. This won’t fix the damaged tissue, but it improves the plant’s appearance and prevents you from focusing on the imperfection.
Pests And Diseases
Philodendron Lickety Split is relatively pest-resistant but can occasionally attract common houseplant insects. Regularly inspect the undersides of leaves and along stems. Early detection makes treatment much easier.
- Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing and tiny speckles. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses. Remove with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
- Scale: Hard, brown bumps on stems and leaves. Scrape off gently and apply horticultural oil.
- Root Rot: Caused by overwatering. Signs include wilting, yellowing, and a foul smell from the soil. You may need to repot, trimming away any black, mushy roots.
Propagation Techniques
You can create new Philodendron Lickety Split plants from your existing one. The most reliable method is division during repotting, as this plant grows from a central clump.
Step-by-Step Division
- Water your plant a day before you plan to divide it. This reduces stress and makes the roots more flexible.
- Gently remove the plant from its pot and carefully shake or wash away excess soil to expose the root system and the base of the stems.
- Identify natural divisions in the root clump where stems are grouped together. Using your hands or a clean, sharp knife, separate a section that has its own roots and at least 2-3 leaves.
- Pot each new division into its own container with fresh, well-draining potting mix. Water thoroughly and place in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
- Keep the soil slightly moist (but not wet) as the new plant establishes itself. You should see new growth in a few weeks, indicating success.
Propagation by stem cuttings is less common for this type of philodendron but can be attempted with a section of stem that includes a node and an aerial root. Place it in water or moist sphagnum moss until roots develop, then pot it up.
Styling and Placement Ideas
The Philodendron Lickety Split’s bold form makes it a natural piece of living art. Its large size means it works best as a floor plant. Place it in an empty corner to soften the space, or use it to frame a piece of furniture like a sofa or armchair. The glossy leaves reflect light, helping to brighten darker areas of a room.
Because of its tropical vibe, it fits perfectly in bohemian, modern, or jungle-themed interiors. Choose a decorative pot that complements your decor—a neutral woven basket, a sleek ceramic planter, or a classic terracotta pot all work well. Just remember to keep the functional inner pot with drainage holes inside the decorative one.
Rotate the plant a quarter turn every time you water to ensure even growth, as the leaves will lean toward the light source. This prevents the plant from becoming lopsided and encourages a symmetrical, full shape.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is The Philodendron Lickety Split Toxic To Pets?
Yes, like all philodendrons, the Lickety Split contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested. It can cause oral irritation, drooling, and difficulty swallowing. Keep this plant out of reach of curious pets and children.
How Often Should I Fertilize My Lickety Split Plant?
Fertilize monthly during the spring and summer with a balanced, half-strength liquid fertilizer. Do not fertilize at all during the fall and winter when the plant is not actively growing. Over-fertilizing can harm the roots.
Why Are The New Leaves On My Plant Not Splitting?
Insufficient light is the most common reason for lack of splits. Younger plants also often produce simpler leaves; the characteristic deep lobes develop as the plant matures. Ensure your plant receives plenty of bright, indirect light to encourage proper leaf development.
Can Philodendron Lickety Split Be Grown Outdoors?
It can be grown outdoors year-round only in USDA hardiness zones 9-11, where temperatures don’t drop below freezing. In other climates, it can spend the summer outside in a shaded or partly shaded spot but must be brought indoors well before the first frost of autumn.
What Is The Difference Between Lickety Split And A Monstera?
While they look similar, they are different plants. Philodendron Lickety Split leaves split from the edge inward and have a more feathery look. Monstera leaves develop both splits and distinct inner holes (fenestrations). Their growth habits also differ, with Monsteras often being vigorous climbers.