The Philodendron ‘Lickety Split’ is known for its deeply lobed, glossy leaves that emerge rapidly. This fast-growing, low-maintenance plant is a favorite among houseplant enthusiasts for its unique, split-leaf foliage and easy-going nature. If you’re looking for a statement plant that adds a touch of the tropics without demanding constant attention, this philodendron is an excellent choice.
In this guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know to care for your Philodendron Lickety Split. We’ll cover its ideal growing conditions, step-by-step care instructions, and how to troubleshoot common problems. By the end, you’ll feel confident keeping your plant healthy and vibrant for years to come.
Philodendron Lickety Split
The Philodendron Lickety Split, sometimes confused with the Philodendron ‘Hope’ or certain Monstera varieties, is a distinct cultivar prized for its architectural form. Its name perfectly describes its growth habit: leaves that “split” or develop deep lobes as they mature, and a “lickety-split” growth speed under the right conditions.
This plant is a self-heading philodendron, meaning it grows upright from a central base rather than vining or trailing. It develops a thick, trunk-like stem over time, supporting large, glossy leaves that can reach impressive sizes indoors. Each new leaf unfurls from a cataphyll, a protective sheath, revealing its bright green, leathery texture.
Origin And Botanical Background
Like many philodendrons, the Lickety Split hails from the tropical regions of the Americas. It is a hybrid cultivar, developed for its desirable leaf shape and robust growth. It belongs to the Araceae family, sharing characteristics with peace lilies and anthuriums.
Understanding its tropical origins is key to replicating its preferred environment in your home. It thrives in warm, humid conditions with bright, filtered light—mimicking the dappled sunlight of a rainforest understory.
Key Identifying Features
- Deeply lobed leaves with 5-7 distinct splits per leaf.
- Glossy, leathery leaf texture with a prominent central vein.
- Upright, self-heading growth habit forming a central trunk.
- Fast growth rate when provided with adequate light and nutrients.
- New leaves emerge a lighter green, darkening as they harden off.
Ideal Growing Conditions
Creating the right environment is the most important step in Philodendron Lickety Split care. Getting these core elements right prevents most issues and ensures vigorous growth.
Light Requirements
This philodendron prefers bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is often ideal, providing gentle morning sun. A spot a few feet back from a south or west window, shielded by a sheer curtain, also works well.
Avoid prolonged exposure to direct afternoon sun, which can scorch the leaves, causing brown, crispy patches. Conversely, too little light will result in leggy growth, smaller leaves, and a loss of the characteristic deep lobes. If you notice the stems stretching out with large gaps between leaves, it’s a sign your plant needs more light.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, the Lickety Split enjoys warmth and humidity. Aim for temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Protect it from cold drafts, air conditioning vents, and sudden temperature drops below 55°F (13°C).
Humidity levels above 50% are beneficial. In dry homes, especially during winter, you can increase humidity by:
- Using a room humidifier placed nearby.
- Grouping it with other plants to create a microclimate.
- Setting the pot on a pebble tray filled with water (ensure the pot sits above the water line).
While it can adapt to average household humidity, higher levels promote larger, healthier leaves and can prevent brown leaf tips.
Complete Care Guide
With the basics of its preferred environment covered, let’s dive into the day-to-day and seasonal care routines that will keep your Philodendron Lickety Split thriving.
Watering Your Plant Correctly
Overwatering is the most common cause of problems. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. A good rule is to water when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
- Check the soil moisture by inserting your finger into the potting mix.
- If the top inch or two is dry, water thoroughly until water flows freely from the drainage holes.
- Allow all excess water to drain away completely. Never let the plant sit in a saucer of standing water.
- Empty the cachepot or saucer after 15-20 minutes.
Watering frequency will vary with the seasons. You may need to water weekly in warm, bright summer months, and only every 2-3 weeks in lower-light winter conditions. Always let the soil condition, not the calendar, guide you.
Soil And Potting Needs
A well-draining, aerated potting mix is non-negotiable. A standard houseplant soil can be amended to improve drainage. A good recipe is:
- 2 parts high-quality potting soil
- 1 part perlite or pumice
- 1 part orchid bark or coco coir
This mix prevents compaction, allows roots to breathe, and helps avoid root rot. Choose a pot with ample drainage holes. Terracotta pots are a great choice as they allow the soil to dry more evenly.
When and How to Repot
Repot your Philodendron Lickety Split every 2-3 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. Spring or early summer is the best time. Select a new pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the old one.
- Gently remove the plant from its current pot, teasing apart any circling roots.
- Place a layer of fresh potting mix in the new pot.
- Position the plant at the same depth it was before and fill in around the roots with mix.
- Water thoroughly to help settle the soil.
Fertilizing For Optimal Growth
During the active growing season (spring and summer), feed your plant every 4-6 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. A formula with an equal NPK ratio, like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20, works well.
Reduce feeding in the fall and stop entirely in the winter when growth naturally slows. Over-fertilizing can lead to salt buildup in the soil, which can damage the roots and cause leaf burn. If you notice a white crust on the soil surface, flush the pot with plenty of water to leach out excess salts.
Pruning And Maintenance
Pruning is simple and helps maintain a attractive shape. Remove any yellowing or dead leaves at the base of their stem using clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. You can also trim back any leggy or awkward stems to a node (the point on the stem where a leaf attaches) to encourage bushier growth.
Regularly wipe the large leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust. This allows the plant to photosynthesize efficiently and keeps it looking its best. Avoid using leaf shine products, as they can clog the plant’s pores.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with the best care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to identify and fix the most common problems with Philodendron Lickety Split.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellow leaves can have several causes. The most common is overwatering. Check the soil; if it’s consistently wet, allow it to dry out more between waterings. Older leaves naturally yellow and die off occasionally—this is normal if it’s just one or two at a time.
Other causes include under-watering, nutrient deficiency, or too much direct sun. Assess your care routine to pinpoint the issue. For example, if the yellowing is accompanied by dry soil and drooping, you likely need to water more frequently.
Brown Leaf Edges Or Tips
Brown, crispy edges are often a sign of low humidity. Increase the moisture in the air around your plant using the methods described earlier. It can also be caused by chemical sensitivity; try using filtered or distilled water if your tap water is heavily fluoridated or chlorinated.
Brown spots in the middle of the leaf, however, might indicate sunburn or a fungal issue. Move the plant out of direct sunlight and ensure good air circulation.
Pest Management
Philodendron Lickety Split can occasionally attract common houseplant pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Early detection is key. Inspect your plant regularly, especially under the leaves and along stems.
- Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing and tiny stippling marks on leaves. Treat by rinsing the plant in the shower or wiping leaves and applying insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
- Scale: Look like small, brown, bumpy shells stuck to stems and leaves. Scrape them off gently and follow with a neem oil treatment.
Isolate any infested plant immediately to prevent the pests from spreading to your other houseplants.
Propagation Techniques
Propagating your Philodendron Lickety Split is a rewarding way to create new plants. The most reliable method is division, as it is a self-heading plant.
How To Propagate By Division
The best time to propagate is when you are repotting in the spring. This method involves separating a mature plant into smaller sections, each with its own roots and stems.
- Remove the plant from its pot and gently shake off excess soil to expose the root ball.
- Identify natural divisions or “pups” growing from the main base. You may need to carefully tease or cut the roots apart with a clean knife.
- Ensure each new section has a healthy portion of roots and at least 2-3 leaves.
- Pot each division into its own container with fresh, well-draining potting mix.
- Water lightly and provide bright, indirect light. The new plants may show some initial stress (wilting), but they should recover within a week or two.
Can You Propagate From Cuttings?
Unlike vining philodendrons, the Lickety Split cannot be propagated from stem cuttings because of its growth habit. Attempting a stem cutting without a node and existing aerial roots will not succeed. Division is the only practical method for home propagation of this particular cultivar.
Design and Styling Tips
With its bold, architectural foliage, the Philodendron Lickety Split makes a stunning interior design element. Its upright form means it doesn’t require a shelf or hanger; it stands proudly on the floor or a sturdy side table.
Place it in a spot where its sculptural leaves can be appreciated from multiple angles. It works beautifully as a focal point in a living room corner, beside a sofa, or in a bright hallway. Its glossy green leaves complement virtually any color scheme, from neutral minimalist spaces to vibrant, eclectic rooms.
Consider pairing it with plants of different textures, like the soft fronds of a fern or the slender leaves of a snake plant, to create visual interest. Choose a decorative pot that complements your decor—a neutral cement pot for a modern look or a colorful glazed pot for a bohemian touch.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is The Philodendron Lickety Split Toxic To Pets?
Yes, like all philodendrons, the Lickety Split contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested. It can cause oral irritation, drooling, and difficulty swallowing. Keep this plant out of reach of curious pets and children.
How Fast Does The Lickety Split Philodendron Grow?
With adequate light, warmth, and nutrients, this is a fast-growing plant. You can expect several new leaves each growing season, with each leaf larger than the last. Growth will slow or pause during the winter months.
Why Are The New Leaves On My Plant Not Splitting?
Insufficient light is the most likely cause. The deep lobes are a response to brighter conditions. Move your plant to a spot with more bright, indirect light. Also, be patient; very young leaves often emerge without splits and develop them as they mature.
What Is The Difference Between Lickety Split And Philodendron Hope?
They are often confused. The Philodendron ‘Hope’ (Philodendron bipinnatifidum) typically has more numerous, finer leaf splits and a more sprawling, open growth habit. The Philodendron Lickety Split has broader, glossier leaves with 5-7 deeper, more defined lobes and a tighter, more upright form.
Should I Use A Moss Pole For My Philodendron Lickety Split?
Since it is a self-heading, upright grower and not a climber, a moss pole is not necessary for structural support. However, as it matures and grows taller, a sturdy stake can be used discreetly to help support the trunk if it begins to lean, ensuring it remains stable.