Holes in your tomato fruits and leaves are frustrating, but the culprit leaves behind specific evidence. If you are wondering what is eating my tomatoes, you are not alone. This guide will help you identify the pest and stop the damage.
First, take a close look at your plants. The type of hole, the time of day you see damage, and even the color of the insect poop can give you answers. We will cover all the common tomato pests, from tiny bugs to large animals.
You can save your crop with the right approach. Let’s find out who is to blame.
What Is Eating My Tomatoes
Tomato plants attract a wide range of hungry visitors. The damage you see points directly to the offender. Chewed leaves often mean caterpillars or beetles. Pecked or hollowed fruit often points to birds or slugs.
Start by examining the damage carefully. Look on the undersides of leaves and in the soil at the base of the plant. Many pests hide during the day. The clues are there if you know what to look for.
This section breaks down the suspects by the evidence they leave behind. Match your problem to the description below.
Chewed Leaves And Stems
When leaves look ragged or have large holes eaten out of them, the pest is likely feeding openly. These are some of the most common leaf-munchers.
Tomato Hornworms
These are the heavyweight champions of tomato destruction. A large green caterpillar with a horn on its rear, it can strip a plant of leaves overnight. Look for dark green droppings on leaves below the damage.
- Identification: Large (up to 4 inches), green with white V-shaped marks and a black horn.
- Damage: Severe defoliation, sometimes stems are also chewed.
- Time: Most active in mid to late summer.
Flea Beetles
Flea beetles are tiny, jumping insects that create a distinctive “shot hole” pattern in leaves. The leaves can look like they’ve been peppered with tiny buckshot. Young plants are most at risk.
- Identification: Very small, dark beetles that jump when disturbed.
- Damage: Numerous small, round holes in leaves, giving them a sieved appearance.
- Time: Early in the growing season, especially on seedlings.
Colorado Potato Beetles
While they prefer potatoes, they happily dine on tomatoes. Both the striped adults and the red, hump-backed larvae consume leaves rapidly.
- Identification: Yellow-and-black striped beetle; larvae are reddish with black spots.
- Damage: Ragged leaf edges and significant leaf consumption.
- Time: Spring and summer, multiple generations.
Damage To Fruits
When the tomatoes themselves are attacked, it feels like a personal insult. The fruit can be ruined from the outside or the inside.
Tomato Fruitworms
Also known as corn earworms, these caterpillars burrow into the fruit. You’ll find a neat hole, often near the stem, and the inside of the tomato is usually eaten.
- Identification: Caterpillars vary in color (green, pink, brown) with stripes.
- Damage: A clean entry hole in the fruit, interior feeding and frass (insect poop) inside.
- Time: When fruits are forming and ripening.
Slugs and Snails
These nighttime feeders leave a tell-tale silvery slime trail. They create irregular, ragged holes in ripe fruit, often low to the ground. They prefer damp conditions.
- Identification: Slime trails on fruit, soil, and leaves. Damage occurs overnight.
- Damage: Large, irregular cavities in fruit, usually on the bottom or side touching soil.
- Time: Damp, rainy periods, especially in the evening and night.
Birds
Birds, like sparrows or robins, peck at ripe, red tomatoes. The damage is often a sharp, V-shaped peck or a hollowed-out area. They might be after water or the fruit itself.
- Identification: Peck marks on multiple fruits, damage often on the top or sunny side.
- Damage: Jagged holes or large chunks missing from ripe fruit.
- Time: Typically early morning, on fruits that have just turned red.
Squirrels and Chipmunks
These rodents take one or two bites from a tomato and then leave it. The damage looks like chunks have been gouged out, and the fruit is often knocked to the ground.
- Identification: Partially eaten fruit on the plant or ground, teeth marks may be visible.
- Damage: Large, irregular bites taken out of multiple fruits.
- Time: Daytime, often in the early morning or late afternoon.
Sucking Insects And Other Problems
Not all damage involves chewing. Some pests suck sap, weakening the plant and causing other symptoms.
Aphids
These tiny, soft-bodied insects cluster on new growth and undersides of leaves. They suck plant juices, causing leaves to curl and distort. They also excrete a sticky substance called honeydew.
- Identification: Small green, black, or pink insects in dense clusters.
- Damage: Curled, sticky leaves, stunted growth, sooty mold on honeydew.
Whiteflies
Tiny, white, moth-like insects that swarm when the plant is disturbed. Like aphids, they suck sap and excrete honeydew, leading to weak plants and black sooty mold.
- Identification: Cloud of tiny white insects when plant is shaken.
- Damage: Yellowing, stunted leaves, sticky honeydew residue.
Blossom End Rot
This is not a pest, but a physiological disorder often mistaken for insect damage. It appears as a dark, leathery spot on the bottom (blossom end) of the fruit. It is caused by calcium deficiency and irregular watering.
- Identification: Sunken, dark brown or black spot on the fruit blossom end.
- Cause: Inconsistent soil moisture limiting calcium uptake.
How To Identify the Culprit: A Step-by-Step Guide
Follow this simple process to become a garden detective. Correct identification is the first step to effective control.
Step 1: Examine The Damage Closely
Look at both the leaves and the fruit. Take notes or pictures. Ask yourself these questions:
- Is the damage on leaves, fruit, or both?
- What shape are the holes? Small and round, large and irregular, or ragged edges?
- Is the fruit damaged from the outside (pecking, chewing) or inside (tunneling)?
- Is there any frass (insect poop) or slime present?
Step 2: Inspect The Plant At Different Times
Many pests are nocturnal or hide during the heat of the day. Check your plants early in the morning, at dusk, and even at night with a flashlight. You might catch the pest in the act.
Step 3: Look For The Pest Itself
Check the undersides of leaves, along stems, and in the soil at the base of the plant. Look for eggs, larvae, and adults. Use a magnifying glass for small insects like aphids.
Step 4: Consider The Time Of Season
Pests appear at different times. Flea beetles are an early-season problem. Hornworms and fruitworms arrive in the heat of summer. Knowing the season narrows the list of suspects.
Organic and Chemical Control Methods
Once you know what you’re dealing with, you can choose the best control method. Always start with the least toxic option to protect beneficial insects and your garden’s ecosystem.
Manual Removal
For large pests like hornworms, hand-picking is very effective. Drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Do this in the early morning or evening when they are easiest to see. For slugs and snails, hand-pick them at night with a flashlight.
Barrier Methods
Physical barriers keep pests away from plants.
- Floating Row Covers: Lightweight fabric placed over plants keeps out flea beetles, birds, and other pests. Remember to remove it when plants flower to allow pollination.
- Copper Tape: Placed around containers or raised beds, it deters slugs and snails by giving them a mild electrical shock.
- Bird Netting: Draped over plants or supported on a frame, it is the most effective way to protect fruit from birds and squirrels.
Organic Sprays And Treatments
These options are derived from natural sources and break down quickly.
- Insecticidal Soap: Effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids and whiteflies. It must contact the insect directly.
- Neem Oil: A multi-purpose oil that disrupts the life cycle of many insects and acts as a fungicide. It works best as a preventative spray.
- Bacillus Thuringiensis (Bt): A natural bacteria that is toxic only to caterpillars (hornworms, fruitworms). It is safe for other insects, pets, and people.
- Diatomaceous Earth: A fine powder made from fossilized algae. It scratches the waxy coating of insects like beetles and slugs, causing them to dehydrate. Reapply after rain.
Chemical Insecticides
Use these as a last resort due to their broader impact. Always read and follow the label instructions precisely.
- Sevin (Carbaryl): A broad-spectrum insecticide effective against many beetles and caterpillars. It is also highly toxic to bees, so apply in the late evening when bees are not active.
- Permethrin: A synthetic insecticide that controls a wide range of pests. It has a longer residual effect than many organic options but can harm beneficial insects.
Remember, chemical controls can also kill the beneficial insects that help keep pest populations in check, like ladybugs and parasitic wasps.
Preventative Strategies for a Healthy Garden
Prevention is always easier than cure. A healthy garden ecosystem is more resilient to pest outbreaks.
Crop Rotation
Do not plant tomatoes in the same spot year after year. This helps break the life cycles of soil-borne pests and diseases. Rotate with unrelated crops like beans or corn.
Companion Planting
Certain plants can repel pests or attract their natural predators.
- Basil: Repels flies and mosquitoes, and some gardeners believe it improves tomato flavor.
- Marigolds: Their roots exude a substance that can deter nematodes (microscopic soil pests).
- Nasturtiums: Act as a trap crop for aphids, luring them away from your tomatoes.
- Borage: Attracts pollinating bees and predatory insects like wasps that prey on hornworms.
Garden Cleanliness
Remove plant debris at the end of the season. Many pests overwinter in old leaves and stems. Keep the area around your tomatoes free of weeds, which can harbor pests.
Encourage Beneficial Insects
Not every bug is a bad bug. Provide habitat and food sources for insect allies.
- Ladybugs and Lacewings: Their larvae consume vast quantities of aphids.
- Braconid Wasps: These tiny wasps parasitize hornworms. If you see a hornworm with white rice-like cocoons on its back, leave it. The wasps will hatch and kill it.
- Planting Flowers: Include plants like dill, fennel, yarrow, and sunflowers to provide nectar for beneficial insects.
Proper Watering And Fertilization
Stressed plants are more susceptible to pest attack. Water tomatoes deeply and consistently to avoid blossom end rot and maintain strong growth. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizer, which promotes lush, soft growth that aphids and other pests love.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Is Making Holes In My Tomato Leaves?
Holes in leaves are commonly caused by caterpillars (like hornworms), beetles (like flea beetles or Colorado potato beetles), or slugs. The size and shape of the hole is your best clue. Small, shotgun-like holes point to flea beetles, while large, ragged sections are likely hornworms.
What Animal Is Eating My Tomatoes At Night?
Nocturnal tomato eaters include slugs, snails, hornworms (which feed into the night), and sometimes raccoons or opossums. Look for slime trails for slugs, or check plants after dark with a flashlight to catch the culprit in action.
How Do I Keep Bugs From Eating My Tomato Plants?
Use a combination of methods: inspect plants regularly, encourage beneficial insects, use floating row covers as a barrier, and apply organic treatments like neem oil or Bt as needed. Healthy soil and consistent watering also grow stronger plants that can better resist pest pressure.
Why Do My Tomatoes Have Holes Inside?
Holes inside the fruit, often accompanied by frass, are the work of tunneling caterpillars, primarily the tomato fruitworm. They enter through a small hole, usually near the stem, and feed on the interior. Picking off affected fruit and using Bt can help control them.
What Is Pecking Holes In My Tomatoes?
Birds are the usual suspects for clean peck marks in ripe tomatoes. They may be seeking water. Squirrels also take bites but leave more jagged edges. Bird netting is the most reliable solution for protecting fruit from animal pests.