Getting the timing right is the first step to a successful garlic crop. In Washington State, planting garlic in the fall allows cloves to establish roots before winter for a summer harvest. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about when to plant garlic in Washington state, ensuring you get the biggest, most flavorful bulbs from your garden.
When To Plant Garlic In Washington State
The ideal planting window for garlic in Washington spans from early October through mid-November. The goal is to get the cloves into the ground so they can develop a robust root system before the ground freezes, but not so early that they send up significant green growth that winter cold will damage.
This fall planting schedule is non-negotiable for most garlic types. Planting in spring typically results in disappointingly small bulbs, as the cloves haven’t had the necessary cold period, or vernalization, to trigger proper bulb formation.
Key Factors Influencing Your Planting Date
While the October to November range is a reliable guide, your specific location within Washington’s diverse climates will fine-tune your date. Consider these three factors.
Your USDA Hardiness Zone
Washington ranges from Zone 4b in the coldest mountain areas to Zone 9a in the mildest coastal spots. Your zone dictates the severity and length of your winter.
- Zones 4-6 (Eastern Washington, Cascades, Northern regions): Aim for early to mid-October. The colder winters mean you need to get cloves planted earlier so roots establish before a hard freeze.
- Zones 7-8 (Puget Sound Lowlands, most of Western WA): The prime window is mid-October to early November. The milder winters allow for a slightly later planting.
- Zone 9 (Pacific Coast areas): You can plant into late November, even early December. Watch that cloves don’t get waterlogged in heavy coastal rains.
First Frost Date and Soil Temperature
A good rule is to plant garlic 2-4 weeks after your area’s first average fall frost. This timing usually coincides with soil temperatures cooling to about 50°F (10°C) at a depth of 4 inches. You can use a simple soil thermometer to check.
Garlic Type: Hardneck vs. Softneck
The type of garlic you choose also gives a slight nudge to your timing.
- Hardneck Garlic: More cold-hardy. It can be planted a little earlier in the fall schedule, especially in colder zones. It requires a longer cold period.
- Softneck Garlic: Prefers slightly milder conditions. In Western WA, it’s often planted a week or two after the hardneck date. It’s the best choice for the warmest coastal areas.
A Month-By-Month Planting Guide For Washington Gardeners
Here is a breakdown of what to focus on each month leading up to and during the planting season.
September: Preparation Month
This is your planning and bed preparation time. Do not plant yet, unless you are in a very high-elevation zone with an extremly short season.
- Source your seed garlic from a reputable nursery or farm. Do not plant garlic from the grocery store, as it may be treated to prevent sprouting and could introduce disease.
- Choose a sunny site with well-draining soil. Garlic hates wet feet.
- Amend your soil with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure. A soil test can guide you on pH; garlic prefers soil between 6.0 and 7.0.
October: Primary Planting Window
For most Washington gardeners, this is the main event. The soil has cooled, and rains have returned, providing natural moisture.
- Break the garlic bulb into individual cloves just before planting. Keep the papery skin on each clove.
- Plant cloves pointy-end up, 2-3 inches deep.
- Space cloves 4-6 inches apart in rows that are 12 inches apart.
- Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil.
- Apply a 4-6 inch layer of mulch (straw, leaves, or grass clippings) after the ground has cooled further, usually a few weeks post-planting. This insulates against freeze-thaw cycles and suppresses weeds.
November: Final Call and Overwintering
If you haven’t planted by early November, try to get it done. Planting too late can result in poor root development. Once mulched, your garlic will essentially dormat over the winter. No further care is needed until spring.
What Happens If You Plant Garlic At The Wrong Time?
Timing errors lead to specific problems.
- Planting Too Early (September or very early October): Cloves may send up green shoots that are vulnerable to winter burn. This can weaken the plant and reduce bulb size.
- Planting Too Late (December or later): Inadequate root development before soil freeze. The cloves may rot in cold, wet soil, or simply produce very small bulbs because they had a shortened growing period.
- Planting in Spring: Without the cold vernalization period, hardneck garlic will likely not form a proper bulb at all. Softneck may form a bulb, but it will be significanly smaller than fall-planted garlic.
Choosing The Right Garlic For Washington’s Regions
Selecting varieties suited to your microclimate is as important as timing. Here’s how to choose.
Hardneck Garlic For Colder Climates
Hardneck varieties produce a central, hard stalk called a scape and typically have fewer, larger cloves per bulb. They are exceptionally cold-hardy and favored in Eastern Washington and colder microclimates.
- Recommended Varieties: Music, German White, Russian Red, Chesnok Red.
- Flavor Profile: Often more complex, with a range of spicy, robust flavors that mellow when cooked.
- Bonus: The scapes, harvested in early summer, are a delicious culinary treat.
Softneck Garlic For Milder Areas
Softneck varieties have a pliable stalk, no scape, and more cloves per bulb. They store longer and are ideal for braiding. They perform best in the milder winters of Western Washington.
- Recommended Varieties: Inchelium Red (a Washington heirloom!), California Early, Silverwhite.
- Flavor Profile: Generally milder, making them excellent for raw uses like pesto or salad dressings.
- Storage: Can store for up to 9-12 months under good conditions.
Step-By-Step Guide To Planting Garlic
Follow these detailed steps for perfect planting.
1. Preparing Your Planting Bed
Garlic grows best in loose, fertile soil. A month before planting, work in 2-3 inches of compost or aged manure into the top 8 inches of soil. Remove any rocks or debris to allow for straight bulb development. Raised beds are an excellent option in areas with heavy clay soil, as they ensure good drainage.
2. Selecting And Preparing Seed Garlic
Always buy “seed garlic” from a trusted source. Choose the largest, healthiest bulbs. On planting day, gently break the bulb apart, being careful not to damage the basal plate (the flat root end) of each clove. Plant only the largest, outer cloves; the tiny inner cloves can be used in cooking but won’t yeild sizable bulbs.
3. The Planting Process
- Make planting holes or a furrow 2-3 inches deep. In heavy soil, err on the shallower side; in sandy soil, plant a bit deeper.
- Place each clove pointy-end up. If you plant it upside down, it will still grow, but the shoot will have to detour, wasting energy.
- Space cloves 4-6 inches apart. This gives each bulb room to expand.
- Cover with soil and gently firm it down with your hands to eliminate large air pockets.
- Water the bed thoroughly to initiate root growth.
4. Applying Winter Mulch
After the ground has cooled significantly, usually a few weeks after planting or after the first hard freeze, apply a thick layer of mulch. Straw, shredded leaves, or weed-free grass clippings work well. This layer regulates soil temperature, conserves moisture, and prevents weeds. Come spring, you can pull back some mulch to let shoots through, but leave it in place as a weed barrier.
Caring For Your Garlic Through The Seasons
Garlic is a low-maintenance crop, but it does need attention at key moments.
Spring Care (March – May)
As days lengthen and temperatures rise, garlic resumes growth. Remove any winter mulch that is matted, but a light layer can remain to supress weeds. Begin regular watering if spring rains are insufficient, aiming for about 1 inch of water per week. When plants are about a foot tall, side-dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer like blood meal or a balanced organic fertilizer to fuel leaf growth, which in turn feeds the bulb.
Summer Care (June – July) And Knowing When To Harvest
By early summer, hardneck garlic will send up a curly flower stalk called a scape. For optimal bulb size, cut or snap off the scape when it makes one full loop. These are edible and delicious. For both hardneck and softneck, stop watering about 2-3 weeks before you expect to harvest. This allows the outer wrappers to begin drying.
Harvest timing is critical. Watch the lower leaves; when about 40-50% of the leaves have turned brown and begun to dry (usually late June to August in Washington), it’s time to test. Gently dig up a bulb. If the cloves are well-formed and the wrapper is papery, it’s harvest time. Do not wait until all leaves are brown, as the bulbs may begin to split and won’t store well.
Curing And Storing Your Garlic Harvest
Proper curing is essential for long storage.
- Gently brush off excess soil, but do not wash the bulbs.
- Lay them out in a single layer or hang them in small bunches in a warm, dry, well-ventilated, and shady place for 3-4 weeks.
- Once the necks are completely dry and the outer skin is papery, trim the roots and cut the stalks (or leave them for braiding softnecks).
- Store cured bulbs in a cool (50-60°F), dark, and dry place with good air circulation. Mesh bags or woven baskets are perfect.
Common Problems and Solutions For Washington Garlic Growers
Even with perfect timing, you may encounter a few issues.
Pests To Watch For
- Onion Maggots: More problematic in wet springs. Use floating row covers as a barrier at planting.
- Nematodes: Microscopic pests that distort growth. Practice crop rotation and buy certified nematode-free seed stock.
- Birds: Sometimes pull up newly planted cloves. A light layer of mulch or row cover can deter them.
Diseases And Prevention
- White Rot: A serious fungal disease causing yellow leaves and white, fluffy growth on bulbs. There is no cure. Destroy infected plants, and do not plant alliums in that spot for 7+ years. Prevention through clean seed and rotation is key.
- Botrytis Rot: Occurs in overly wet conditions. Ensure good drainage and air circulation. Avoid overhead watering.
- Penicillium Decay (Blue Mold): Often seen on stored garlic. It usually enters through damage. Handle bulbs gently during harvest and curing.
Environmental Stressors
In Western WA, winter waterlogging is a common risk. Plant in raised beds if your soil drains poorly. In Eastern WA, lack of winter snow cover can leave cloves vulnerable to freeze injury; a thick mulch is your best defense. Across the state, a sudden warm spell in late winter can cuase premature growth; mulch helps buffer these temperature swings.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Plant Garlic In The Spring In Washington State?
You can, but you should not expect good results. Spring-planted garlic misses the crucial cold period needed for bulbing. It will often produce a single large clove (called a “round”) or a very small, underdeveloped bulb. Fall planting is strongly recommended for a worthwhile harvest.
What Is The Best Garlic To Grow In Western Washington?
Softneck varieties generally perform best in the mild, wet winters of Western Washington. The Washington heirloom ‘Inchelium Red’ is a top performer, along with other softnecks like ‘California Early’ and ‘Silverwhite’. Some hardnecks, like ‘Music’, can also do well with good drainage.
How Deep Should I Plant Garlic Cloves?
A depth of 2 to 3 inches is standard. In sandy soil that drains quickly, you can plant at the deeper end of that range. In heavier clay soil, plant at 2 inches to prevent the clove from sitting in cold, wet soil which could lead to rot.
Can I Use Garlic From The Grocery Store To Plant?
It is not recommended. Grocery store garlic is often treated with a sprout inhibitor to extend shelf life. It may also be a variety unsuited to our climate, and it could introduce soil-borne diseases into your garden. Investing in certified disease-free seed garlic from a local source gives you the best start.
When Is Garlic Ready To Harvest In Washington?
Harvest time varies from late June through August, depending on your zone, the variety, and the spring weather. The most reliable indicator is the plant itself: when roughly half of the lower leaves have turned brown and died back, it’s time to check a bulb. Proper curing after harvest is essential for storage.