If you want to learn how to grow bigger garlic, you are in the right place. Growing larger garlic bulbs requires careful attention to planting depth, soil nutrition, and harvest timing. This guide will walk you through every step, from choosing the right cloves to curing your harvest for storage.
Bigger bulbs mean more cloves and a more satisfying yield from your garden space. The process is straightforward but demands precision. Let’s get started with the fundamentals for a successful crop.
How To Grow Bigger Garlic
To grow bigger garlic, you must focus on the entire lifecycle of the plant. It begins long before you put a clove in the ground. Selecting the right type for your climate and preparing your soil are the first critical steps.
Garlic is a heavy feeder that needs a long, cool growing period to develop large bulbs. Rushing or skipping steps will result in small, disappointing heads. Follow this comprehensive outline for the best results.
Understanding Garlic Types For Maximum Size
Not all garlic is the same. Choosing the correct type for your local weather is the single most important factor for bulb size. Planting the wrong kind can lead to stunted growth.
There are two main categories: hardneck and softneck. Your climate dictates which will perform best and produce the largest bulbs for you.
Hardneck Garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon)
Hardneck varieties produce a stiff central stalk called a scape. They are known for their complex, robust flavors and larger, easier-to-peel cloves.
- Best for colder climates with harsh winters (USDA zones 1-6).
- Requires a significant period of cold vernalization to form bulbs properly.
- Typically produces fewer but larger cloves per bulb, often 4-12 cloves.
- Popular large-bulb varieties include Music, German Red, and Russian Red.
Softneck Garlic (Allium sativum var. sativum)
Softneck garlic does not produce a hard central scape. It is the type commonly found in supermarkets, known for its long storage life and numerous cloves.
- Best for milder winters (USDA zones 7 and warmer).
- More adaptable to a range of conditions but less cold-hardy.
- Produces more cloves per bulb, sometimes up to 20, but they can be smaller.
- Large-bulb varieties include Inchelium Red, California Early, and Silverwhite.
Always source your seed garlic from reputable growers or garden centers. Do not plant garlic from the grocery store, as it is often treated to prevent sprouting and may carry disease into your soil.
Selecting And Preparing Seed Garlic
Your seed garlic is your starting point. Larger, healthier cloves will produce larger, healthier bulbs. This step cannot be overlooked if you want a substantial harvest.
Inspect each bulb carefully before planting. Choose only the biggest and healthiest bulbs from your stock or supplier. Discard any that show signs of mold, damage, or disease.
- Break apart the bulb into individual cloves just before planting. This prevents the cloves from drying out.
- Select only the largest, plumpest outer cloves for planting. The small inner cloves will not yeild big bulbs and are better used in the kitchen.
- Leave the papery skin on each clove intact. This protective layer shields the clove from soil-borne fungi and rot.
- Some gardeners soak cloves in a solution of water and baking soda (1 tbsp per gallon) for a few hours before planting. This can help prevent fungal issues.
Soil Preparation And Nutrition
Garlic thrives in loose, fertile, and well-draining soil. Poor, compacted soil is a surefire way to get small, misshapen bulbs. Preparing your bed properly is an investment in your harvest size.
The ideal soil pH for garlic is between 6.0 and 7.0. You can test your soil with a simple kit from a garden center. Amend your soil several weeks before planting to give it time to settle.
Amending Your Soil For Growth
Garlic needs a steady supply of nutrients, especially nitrogen early on and phosphorus for bulb development. Organic matter is key to soil structure and fertility.
- Work in 2-4 inches of well-rotted compost or aged manure into the top 8 inches of soil.
- Add a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer or a specific bulb fertilizer according to package directions. Bone meal is an excellent source of phosphorus.
- Ensure the bed is free of weeds and large clumps. Loose soil allows roots to spread easily and bulbs to expand without resistance.
- If you have heavy clay soil, add coarse sand or additional compost to improve drainage. Garlic bulbs will rot in waterlogged ground.
Planting For Success: Timing And Technique
Planting at the right time and with the correct technique is what sets the stage for big bulbs. Most garlic is planted in the fall, which allows it to establish roots before winter.
Optimal Planting Time
The goal is to get the cloves in the ground so they develop roots but do not send up significant green growth before winter dormancy.
- In cold climates, plant 4-6 weeks before the ground freezes solid. This is typically mid-October to early November.
- In milder climates, you can plant from late October through December.
- Spring planting is possible but generally results in much smaller bulbs, as the plants lack the crucial root development period.
Precise Planting Method
Depth and spacing are critical. Planting too shallow exposes cloves to winter cold; planting too deep hinders sprouting. Crowding plants competes for nutrients.
- Create rows spaced 12-18 inches apart. This gives you room to weed and fertilize.
- Plant individual cloves pointy-end up, 2-3 inches deep. Measure this from the base of the clove to the soil surface.
- Space cloves 6-8 inches apart within the row. This provides ample room for each bulb to expand.
- Cover the cloves with soil and water them in well to settle the soil and initiate root growth.
- Apply a 4-6 inch layer of mulch (like straw, chopped leaves, or grass clippings) after planting. This insulates the soil, prevents frost heave, and suppresses weeds.
Seasonal Care Through Spring And Summer
Your work after planting directly influences final bulb size. Consistent care through the growing season provides the plant with everything it needs to focus energy on bulb enlargement.
Spring Tasks: Feeding and Watering
As the weather warms and green shoots emerge, garlic enters a period of rapid leaf growth. More healthy leaves mean more energy for the bulb later.
- In early spring, side-dress the plants with a high-nitrogen fertilizer like blood meal or a balanced organic fertilizer. This supports vigorous leaf development.
- Ensure the plants receive about 1 inch of water per week from rainfall or irrigation. Consistent moisture is vital during this growth phase.
- Keep the area meticulously weeded. Weeds compete directly for water and nutrients, robbing your garlic of its potential size.
The Importance of Scape Removal For Hardnecks
In early summer, hardneck garlic will send up a curly flower stalk called a scape. Removing this is non-negotiable for bigger bulbs.
The plant will divert energy away from the underground bulb to produce this flower and seed head. By cutting the scape, you redirect all energy back into bulb growth.
- Wait until the scape forms one full loop or curl.
- Cut or snap it off at the base where it emerges from the top leaves.
- Do not wait for the scape to straighten, as the plant will have already wasted significant energy.
- Use the tender scapes in cooking—they are a delicious bonus crop!
Summer Water Management
As summer progresses and bulb swelling begins, your watering strategy must change. Too much water too late can cause issues.
- Continue consistent watering through late spring and early summer as the bulbs begin to form.
- In the last 2-3 weeks before harvest, stop watering completely. This allows the outer wrappers to dry and begin to cure on the plant, which is essential for good storage and prevents rot.
Knowing Exactly When To Harvest
Harvesting at the perfect moment is crucial. Harvest too early, and the bulbs will be small and underdeveloped. Harvest too late, and the bulbs may have split open, they won’t store well, and the cloves can begin to seperate.
Garlic does not give you a obvious signal like a tomato turning red. You need to observe the plant’s leaves closely.
Visual Harvest Cues
Watch for these signs that your garlic is ready to be lifted from the ground.
- For hardneck varieties, harvest when roughly half of the lower leaves have turned brown, but the top 5-6 leaves are still green.
- For softneck varieties, harvest when the lower third to half of the leaves have browned.
- The plants will begin to look a bit tired and will not be producing new, upright growth.
- Do not wait for all the leaves to turn completely brown. If you do, the bulb’s papery wrapper will have disintegrated, leaving it unprotected.
The Harvesting Process
- Choose a dry day to harvest. Wet soil can cling to bulbs and increase the chance of mold during curing.
- Use a garden fork to gently loosen the soil about 6 inches away from the plant. Lift the bulb out by hand; do not pull on the stem alone.
- Brush off excess soil gently. Avoid washing the bulbs with water, as this invites rot during curing.
- Handle the bulbs carefully to avoid bruising, which also leads to storage rot.
Curing And Storing Your Large Bulbs
Proper curing is the final, essential step to ensure your big, beautiful bulbs store for months. Curing slowly removes moisture from the outer layers and neck of the garlic, sealing the bulb.
How To Cure Garlic Correctly
Good curing requires the right conditions: warmth, darkness, and excellent air circulation.
- Bundle 4-6 plants together and hang them upside down in a shaded, dry, and well-ventilated area like a garage, shed, or covered porch.
- You can also lay them in a single layer on a rack or screen. Ensure air can move around all sides of each bulb.
- Avoid direct sunlight, which can actually cook the garlic and affect flavor and storage life.
- The curing process typically takes 3-4 weeks. The bulbs are ready when the outer skin is papery, the neck is completely dry, and the roots are hard and brittle.
Preparing For Long-Term Storage
Once cured, you need to prepare the bulbs for their final storage location.
- Trim the roots close to the bulb base with sharp pruners.
- Cut the stalks off, leaving about 1-2 inches for hardnecks. For softnecks, you can leave longer stalks for braiding.
- Gently remove only the dirtiest outer wrapper, but leave as many intact layers as possible. These protect the cloves.
- Store your cured garlic in a cool (50-60°F), dark, and dry place with good air flow. Mesh bags, woven baskets, or paper bags work well.
- Regularly check your stored garlic and use any bulbs that show signs of softening or sprouting first.
Troubleshooting Common Size Problems
Even with good care, you might encounter issues that limit bulb size. Here are common problems and their solutions.
Small Bulbs
- Cause: Planting too late in fall or too early in spring, inadequate winter chill for hardnecks, or overcrowding.
- Solution: Adjust planting time, ensure proper spacing, and verify you are using the correct garlic type for your zone.
Split or Loose Bulbs
- Cause: Leaving bulbs in the ground too long after maturity or inconsistent watering followed by heavy rain late in the season.
- Solution: Harvest on time based on leaf signals and manage watering carefully in the final weeks.
Yellowing Leaves Prematurely
- Cause: Often a sign of nutrient deficiency (usually nitrogen) or overwatering leading to root rot.
- Solution: Conduct a soil test and amend accordingly. Improve bed drainage and follow the recommended watering schedule.
FAQ: How To Grow Bigger Garlic
Here are answers to some frequently asked questions about growing large garlic bulbs.
What is the best fertilizer for growing bigger garlic?
Garlic benefits from a balanced, slow-release fertilizer applied at planting and a nitrogen boost in early spring. Organic options like composted manure, blood meal (for nitrogen), and bone meal (for phosphorus) are excellent choices. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after the scape removal period, as they can encourage leaf growth over bulb growth.
Can I plant garlic from the grocery store to get big bulbs?
It is not recommended. Supermarket garlic is often treated with a sprout inhibitor and may be a variety unsuited to your climate, resulting in poor growth. It can also carry diseases that persist in your soil. For the biggest bulbs, always purchase certified disease-free seed garlic from a garden supplier or reputable online grower.
How deep should you plant garlic cloves for maximum size?
Plant cloves 2 to 3 inches deep, measured from the base of the clove to the soil surface. In very cold climates, err on the deeper side (3 inches) for better winter protection. Proper depth insulates the clove, supports strong stem development, and helps prevent the developing bulb from pushing out of the ground.
Why did my garlic produce small bulbs even though the tops looked healthy?
Healthy tops but small bulbs often indicate a problem with timing or underground conditions. The most common causes are: planting too late in the season (so roots didn’t establish before winter), harvesting too early, or soil that was too compacted for the bulb to expand. Insufficient sunlight (less than 6-8 hours daily) can also be a factor.
Is it better to grow garlic in raised beds or in the ground?
You can achieve large bulbs in both. Raised beds offer superior control over soil drainage and composition, which is a significant advantage, especially if you have heavy native soil. They also warm up faster in spring. In-ground planting works perfectly well if you take the time to properly amend and loosen the soil to a depth of at least 10-12 inches before planting.