Landscaping With Arborvitae

Landscaping with arborvitae offers year-round structure, acting as a living fence or a graceful backdrop for other plants. This versatile evergreen is a favorite for good reason. It provides privacy, wind protection, and a consistent green canvas that makes your garden look complete in every season.

Whether you are starting from scratch or updating an existing yard, this guide will help you use arborvitae effectively. We will cover everything from choosing the right variety to planting and long-term care.

You can create beautiful, functional spaces with these reliable plants.

Arborvitae, known botanically as Thuja, are coniferous trees and shrubs in the cypress family. They are prized for their dense, scale-like foliage that maintains its color throughout the year. Their natural pyramidal or columnar shapes require minimal pruning to look neat.

This makes them a low-maintenance choice for many landscape designs. From tall screens to compact foundation plantings, there’s likely an arborvitae cultivar that fits your specific need.

Understanding their basic growth habits is the first step to successful landscaping with arborvitae.

Why Choose Arborvitae For Your Landscape

There are several compelling reasons to incorporate arborvitae into your outdoor plans. Their benefits extend far beyond just looking green all year.

Here are the key advantages:

Year-Round Interest: Unlike deciduous plants, arborvitae provide consistent color and structure, even in the depths of winter. This prevents your landscape from looking bare.
Privacy and Screening: They are one of the most popular choices for creating natural living fences. Planted in a row, they effectively block unwanted views and reduce noise.
Low Maintenance: Once established, most arborvitae varieties require little care beyond occasional watering during droughts and maybe a yearly trim.
Wildlife Habitat: Their dense branches offer excellent shelter for birds, especially during cold and stormy weather.
Adaptability: Many varieties are hardy across a wide range of climates and can tolerate different soil types, though they prefer well-drained earth.
Windbreak: Planting a row of arborvitae can shield more delicate plants and your home from harsh winds, reducing heating costs.

Popular Arborvitae Varieties For Landscaping

Not all arborvitae are the same. Selecting the right cultivar is crucial for your project’s success. Consider mature height, width, growth rate, and hardiness zone.

Here are some of the most reliable varieties:

Emerald Green (Thuja Occidentalis ‘Smaragd’)

This is perhaps the most famous landscaping arborvitae. It forms a narrow, bright green pyramid that retains its vibrant color in winter. It typically reaches 12-15 feet tall but stays only 3-4 feet wide, making it perfect for tight spaces or elegant formal hedges.

Green Giant (Thuja Plicata x Standishii ‘Green Giant’)

As the name suggests, this is a fast-growing, large variety. It can grow 3-5 feet per year, eventually reaching 50-60 feet tall. It’s excellent for a quick, tall screen and is more resistant to deer browsing and bagworms than other types.

Techny (Thuja Occidentalis ‘Techny’)

Also known as ‘Mission’ arborvitae, this variety has a broad pyramidal form and maintains excellent dark green winter color. It grows slowly to about 10-15 feet tall and is very cold hardy, making it a superb choice for northern climates.

Degroot’s Spire (Thuja Occidentalis ‘Degroot’s Spire’)

This unique cultivar has a exceptionally narrow, spiraling growth habit. It’s ideal for adding vertical accent in small gardens or flanking an entryway. It grows very slowly to about 10 feet tall but remains less than 2 feet wide.

Little Giant (Thuja Occidentalis ‘Little Giant’)

A dwarf, globe-shaped variety, ‘Little Giant’ is perfect for foundation plantings, low borders, or containers. It naturally forms a dense ball without shearing, maturing at around 4-5 feet in both height and width.

Design Ideas And Applications

Now that you know the types, let’s look at how to use them. Landscaping with arborvitae can solve many design challenges and create stunning visual effects.

Creating a Living Privacy Screen

This is the most common use. For a effective screen, plant your arborvitae in a straight or staggered row. The spacing is critical—too close and they will compete for resources; too far and you’ll have gaps.

For varieties like ‘Emerald Green,’ space plants 2-3 feet apart.
For larger types like ‘Green Giant,’ space 5-6 feet apart.
Plant in a trench for a uniform look and easier watering.
Consider a double-staggered row for a thicker, more impenetrable barrier.

Foundation Planting

Arborvitae can soften the corners of your home and anchor the landscape. Use dwarf or medium-sized varieties to avoid overwhelming the structure.

Flank the corners of your house with matching columnar types. Use rounded dwarf varieties under windows. Always account for the plant’s mature width to prevent constant pruning or crowding against the siding.

Specimen and Accent Planting

A single, well-shaped arborvitae can serve as a focal point. A spiral-pruned ‘Degroot’s Spire’ or a mature ‘Techny’ in the center of a lawn or garden bed draws the eye and adds structure.

Windbreaks and Noise Barriers

Planting a row of tall, dense arborvitae on the windward side of your property can significantly reduce wind speed. This protects gardens, patios, and can even lower home energy consumption. The density of the foliage also helps absorb sound from roads or neighbors.

Mixed Borders and Backdrops

The rich, neutral green of arborvitae makes a perfect backdrop for flowering shrubs and perennials. Plant them behind hydrangeas, roses, or colorful spirea. The contrast makes the colors of the flowering plants pop.

How To Plant Arborvitae Correctly

Proper planting is the single most important factor for the long-term health of your arborvitae. Rushing this step can lead to problems for years to come.

Follow these numbered steps for best results:

Choose the Right Time: Early fall is ideal, giving roots time to establish before winter. Early spring is also excellent, as long as you can provide consistent water through the first summer.
Select a Suitable Site: Most arborvitae prefer full sun to partial shade (at least 6 hours of direct sun). Ensure the site has well-drained soil; they will not tolerate “wet feet.”
Dig the Hole: Dig a hole two to three times as wide as the root ball, but no deeper. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil to prevent settling and rot.
Prepare the Root Ball: Gently loosen any circling roots on the outside of the ball. If the plant is pot-bound, you can make a few shallow vertical cuts to encourage roots to grow outward.
Position and Backfill: Place the plant in the hole. Backfill with the native soil you removed, unless it is pure clay or sand. Amending with a small amount of compost is fine, but avoid creating a “pot” effect that discourages roots from expanding.
Water Thoroughly: After backfilling halfway, water to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Then finish backfilling and water again deeply. Create a shallow berm of soil around the edge of the hole to help direct water to the roots.
Mulch: Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch, like shredded bark, around the base. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk itself to prevent moisture buildup and rodent damage.

Essential Care And Maintenance

Once planted, arborvitae are relatively easy to care for. Consistent attention in the first few years ensures a strong, resilient plant.

Watering Guidelines

Water is critical, especially for the first two to three years. Deep, infrequent watering is better than frequent shallow sprinkling.

First Year: Water deeply 1-2 times per week, depending on rainfall and heat. The goal is to keep the root ball and surrounding soil moist but not soggy.
Established Plants: Once established, arborvitae are somewhat drought-tolerant but will benefit from a deep soaking during extended dry periods of four weeks or more.
Avoid overhead watering in the evening, as this can promote fungal diseases on the foliage.

Fertilizing For Health

Arborvitae are not heavy feeders. Over-fertilizing can cause excessive, weak growth that is susceptible to damage.

In early spring, you can apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer formulated for evergreens. Sprinkle it according to package instructions around the drip line (the area under the outermost branches) and water it in. If your soil is decent, fertilizing every other year is often sufficient.

Pruning and Shaping

Pruning is mostly for maintenance, not to control size. Always choose a variety that naturally fits the space you have.

When to Prune: The best time is in early spring before new growth starts. You can also do light trimming in mid-summer if needed.
How to Prune: Never cut back into old, brown wood, as most varieties will not regenerate greenery from it. Only prune green, leafy growth. Use sharp hand shears or hedge trimmers for formal hedges.
Topping is Harmful: Avoid cutting off the central leader (the top main stem) on pyramidal varieties. This ruins their natural shape and can lead to structural problems.

Common Pests and Problems

While generally resilient, arborvitae can face a few issues. Catching them early is key.

Bagworms: These caterpillars create cone-shaped bags on the branches and can defoliate a tree. Hand-pick bags in winter or use a targeted insecticide in early summer when the larvae are small.
Spider Mites: They cause foliage to look speckled and bronzed. A strong spray of water from a hose can dislodge them, or use horticultural oil.
Root Rot: Caused by poorly drained, soggy soil. Symptoms include browning, wilting, and dieback. Prevention through proper site selection is the only cure.
Winter Burn: Foliage turns brown, especially on the south-facing side, due to frozen soil and drying winds. Anti-desiccant sprays in late fall and thorough fall watering can help prevent it.
Deer Damage: Deer will browse on arborvitae, especially in winter. ‘Green Giant’ is less palatable, but fencing or repellents may be necessary in areas with high deer populations.

Frequently Asked Questions

How far from my fence should I plant arborvitae for a screen?

Plant the arborvitae at least 3-4 feet from the fence line. This accounts for the plant’s mature width on one side and allows you room to get behind them for maintenance. It also improves air circulation, which reduces disease risk.

How fast do arborvitae grow each year?

Growth rates vary widely by variety. A ‘Green Giant’ can grow 3 feet or more per year, while a ‘Degroot’s Spire’ may grow less than 6 inches. Always check the expected growth rate for your specific cultivar when planning.

Can I plant arborvitae in heavy clay soil?

It is not ideal. If you have clay soil, you must improve drainage dramatically. Plant in a raised mound or berm, and amend a very wide planting area (not just the hole) with compost and gypsum to break up the clay. Choosing a variety known for tolerance, like ‘Green Giant,’ can also help.

Why are the tips of my arborvitae turning brown?

Tip browning can have several causes. The most common are seasonal winter burn, drought stress, or damage from dog urine. Check your watering habits first. If the browning is on the inner branches, it may be normal seasonal shedding of older foliage.

What are good companion plants for arborvitae?

Excellent companions include shade-tolerant plants for underneath, like hostas and coral bells. For contrasting textures and colors, plant hydrangeas, panicle hydrangeas, ornamental grasses, or boxwood shrubs in front. Spring-blooming bulbs like daffodils also work well at their base.

Troubleshooting And Long-Term Success

Even with the best care, you might encounter challenges. Here’s how to address common long-term concerns in your landscaping with arborvitae projects.

If an established plant suddenly starts to brown or thin out, systematically check for problems. First, examine the soil moisture. Is it too dry or, more commonly, too wet? Probe the root zone. Next, look closely at the branches and trunk for signs of pests like bagworms or boring insects.

Consider any recent changes: new construction that altered drainage, herbicide overspray, or extreme weather events. Often, the issue is environmental stress rather than a disease.

For overcrowded plantings, you may face a tough choice. You can try to transplant smaller specimens in early spring, though success is not guaranteed with mature plants. Sometimes, selective removal is the healthiest option for the remaining trees, allowing for better air and light penetration.

Remember, patience is key. Arborvitae respond slowly to changes. A correction in care may not show visible improvement until the next growing season. Avoid the temptation to over-prune or over-fertilize in response to a problem, as this can often cause more harm than good.

With proper selection, planting, and care, your arborvitae will provide beauty, privacy, and structure for decades to come, forming the reliable backbone of your landscape design.