Types Of Laurel Trees

When planning your garden or landscape, understanding the different types of laurel trees is a great place to start. Laurel trees include a diverse group of plants, from the classic cherry laurel hedge to the aromatic bay laurel tree. This guide will help you identify the main varieties, their uses, and how to care for them.

You might be surprised by how many plants are called “laurel.” They belong to several different botanical families. Knowing which type you have is key to providing the right conditions for it to thrive.

We will cover everything from popular hedging choices to ornamental and culinary stars. By the end, you’ll be able to choose the perfect laurel for your space.

The term “laurel” is used for a range of evergreen shrubs and trees known for their glossy, often fragrant leaves. While they share a common name, their growth habits, sizes, and needs can vary widely. The most common laurels fall into a few key genera: *Prunus* (cherry laurels), *Laurus* (true laurels), and *Kalmia* (mountain laurels).

Some are grown for dense, private hedges, others for their beautiful flowers, and one famous type for its culinary leaves. Let’s break down the primary categories you’re likely to encounter at nurseries or in established gardens.

True Laurels (Laurus Nobilis)

The bay laurel, or *Laurus nobilis*, is the classic “true” laurel. It’s the one used in cooking and for making the laurel wreaths of ancient Greece and Rome. This is a slow-growing, aromatic evergreen tree that can eventually reach up to 40 feet tall, though it is often kept smaller in containers.

Its leaves are leathery, dark green, and highly aromatic when crushed. This is the only laurel whose leaves are safe for culinary use. You can dry them to add flavor to soups, stews, and sauces.

Key Characteristics Of Bay Laurel

Botanical Name: *Laurus nobilis*
Common Names: Bay laurel, sweet bay, true laurel, Grecian laurel.
Mature Size: 10-40 feet tall, 10-20 feet wide.
Foliage: Glossy, dark green, lance-shaped leaves with a strong, pleasant aroma.
Flowers: Inconspicuous yellow flowers in spring, followed by small black berries on female plants.
Primary Use: Culinary herb, ornamental tree, topiary, and container plant.

Bay laurel prefers full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil. It is somewhat drought-tolerant once established but appreciates regular watering. In colder climates (below USDA zone 8), it’s best grown in a pot that can be brought indoors during winter. Watch out for scale insects and bay sucker, a common pest that distorts the leaves.

Cherry Laurels (Prunus Laurocerasus)

This group is perhaps the most commonly planted for hedging and screening. Cherry laurels are fast-growing, robust evergreens with large, glossy leaves. They are not true laurels but belong to the rose family, which includes cherries and plums. All parts of cherry laurel plants are toxic if ingested.

They are valued for their rapid growth, dense foliage, and tolerance of shade and poor soils. There are several popular cultivars, each with slightly different habits.

Common Cherry Laurel Cultivars

‘Rotundifolia’: Perhaps the most popular, with large, rounded leaves and a very upright, dense growth habit. Ideal for tall, formal hedges.
‘Otto Luyken’: A compact, low-growing variety that spreads wider than it is tall. Excellent for low hedges or ground cover in shady areas.
‘Schipkaensis’ (Skip Laurel): Known for its narrow, pointed leaves and excellent cold hardiness. A good choice for colder regions than other cherry laurels.
‘Zabeliana’: A spreading form with long, narrow leaves, often used as a tall ground cover.

Cherry laurels are generally low-maintenance. They can handle heavy pruning, making them ideal for formal hedges. They produce upright spikes of white flowers in spring, followed by small red cherries that turn black. These berries are attractive to birds but are poisonous to humans and pets.

Portugal Laurel (Prunus Lusitanica)

Often considered a more elegant relative of the cherry laurel, Portugal laurel is a beautiful evergreen tree or large shrub. It has darker green leaves with red stems (petioles) and a more refined appearance. It is also less prone to some of the diseases that affect cherry laurel.

Its growth is somewhat slower and more tree-like, making it suitable as a standalone specimen or a looser, more natural hedge. The flowers are long, slender racemes of white blooms in early summer, which are very attractive to bees.

Portugal Laurel Vs. Cherry Laurel

Leaves: Portugal laurel has darker, often smaller leaves with distinctive red stems.
Growth Habit: More upright and tree-like, less dense and “bulky” than cherry laurel.
Flowers: Longer, hanging clusters of white flowers appear slightly later in the season.
Disease Resistance: Generally shows better resistance to shot-hole disease and powdery mildew.

This laurel prefers moist, well-drained soil and can tolerate more alkaline conditions than cherry laurel. It is an excellent, though sometimes overlooked, choice for a sophisticated garden structure.

Mountain Laurels (Kalmia Latifolia)

This is a completely different type of plant, native to eastern North America. Mountain laurel is a broadleaf evergreen shrub prized for its spectacular spring flowers, not for hedging. It belongs to the heath family, alongside rhododendrons and azaleas, and shares their love for acidic soil.

Its flowers are bowl-shaped, appearing in clusters and ranging from white to pink to deep rose, often with intricate markings inside. All parts of the mountain laurel are highly toxic.

Growing Mountain Laurel Successfully

To grow mountain laurel well, you need to mimic its natural woodland habitat. It requires acidic, humus-rich, well-drained soil that stays consistently moist. It prefers dappled shade or morning sun with afternoon shade, especially in hotter climates.

Plant it high, with the root ball slightly above soil level, and mulch with pine needles or oak leaves to maintain acidity. Avoid heavy clay soils and full, baking sun, which will stress the plant. Pruning is rarely needed except to remove dead wood or shape the plant after flowering.

Spotted Laurel (Aucuba Japonica)

Often called Japanese laurel or spotted laurel, *Aucuba japonica* is another imposter. It’s grown primarily for its bold, variegated foliage—bright green leaves splashed with yellow spots. It’s one of the best plants for deep, dry shade where little else will grow.

It’s a dioecious plant, meaning there are separate male and female plants. Female plants will produce bright red berries in fall if a male pollinator is nearby. All parts of the aucuba plant are mildly toxic.

This shrub is very tough and adaptable, tolerating pollution, shade, drought, and poor soil. It can be grown as a dense hedge in shady areas or as a standalone foliage accent. Watch for black sooty mold, which can grow on the honeydew excreted by scale insects, a common pest on aucuba.

Other Plants Commonly Called Laurel

The common name “laurel” gets applied to several other plants, which can cause confusion. It’s important to recognize these, as their care and toxicity differ.

English Laurel (Prunus Laurocerasus)

This is simply another common name for the cherry laurel discussed earlier. The term “English laurel” is widely used in the horticultural trade, especially in North America.

California Bay Laurel (Umbellularia Californica)

Also known as Oregon myrtle or pepperwood, this native tree is a relative of the true bay laurel. Its leaves are more pungent and can cause headaches when crushed. They can be used as a bay leaf substitute but are much stronger, so use sparingly.

Sheep Laurel (Kalmia Angustifolia)

A low-growing, native relative of mountain laurel. It is also highly toxic, particularly to livestock, hence its name. It has smaller leaves and pink flowers.

Choosing The Right Laurel For Your Garden

Selecting a laurel depends on what you want the plant to do. Are you looking for a quick screen, a culinary herb, or a flowering shrub? Consider your climate, soil, and available space.

For Hedging And Screening

If your primary goal is to create a dense, evergreen hedge for privacy, your best bets are the cherry laurels or Portugal laurel.

For a fast, tall screen: Choose Cherry Laurel ‘Rotundifolia’.
For a low, compact hedge: Choose Cherry Laurel ‘Otto Luyken’.
For a colder climate: Choose Cherry Laurel ‘Schipkaensis’.
For a more elegant, natural look: Choose Portugal Laurel.

Remember that these plants can grow large. You will need to commit to regular pruning, typically twice a year, to maintain a neat hedge at your desired size.

For Culinary And Ornamental Use

If you want leaves for cooking, the only safe choice is the true bay laurel (*Laurus nobilis*). You can grow it as a patio tree in a container or plant it in the ground in a warm, sheltered spot. For purely ornamental interest with stunning flowers, the mountain laurel (*Kalmia latifolia*) is unmatched, provided you have the right acidic soil conditions.

For Difficult Shady Spots

When you have a dark, dry corner under trees, the spotted laurel (*Aucuba japonica*) is a champion. Its variegated foliage will brighten up the space with very little care required. It’s a very forgiving plant for challenging areas.

Planting And Caring For Laurel Trees

Proper planting and care will ensure your laurel plants establish well and remain healthy for years to come. While specific needs vary, here are general guidelines that apply to most common laurels.

How To Plant A Laurel

Timing: The best time to plant is in early fall or spring, avoiding extreme heat or frost.
Location: Choose a site with appropriate sunlight. Most laurels tolerate partial shade, but bay laurel prefers full sun.
Soil Preparation: Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. For hedging, dig a trench instead of individual holes.
Amendments: Mix some compost or well-rotted manure into the excavated soil, especially if your soil is poor.
Planting: Place the plant in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Backfill with the amended soil, firming gently.
Watering: Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base to retain moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it away from the stem.

Watering And Feeding Requirements

Laurels need consistent moisture, especially during their first two years after planting and during dry spells. Deep, infrequent watering is better than frequent light sprinklings. Once established, many are quite drought-tolerant.

Feed your laurels in early spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. A mulch of compost applied annually is often sufficient for hedging plants. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can lead to excessive, weak growth.

Pruning And Maintenance

Pruning keeps hedges dense and manageable. For cherry and Portugal laurels, the main pruning should be done in late spring after flowering. You can do a second, lighter trim in late summer if needed. Avoid pruning in fall, as new growth may be damaged by frost.

Use sharp hedge trimmers or secateurs. For bay laurel grown as a standard tree or for topiary, prune in spring to shape. Mountain laurel needs minimal pruning; just remove spent flower clusters and any dead wood.

Regularly check the undersides of leaves for pests like scale, aphids, or bay suckers. Good air circulation helps prevent fungal diseases like powdery mildew.

Common Problems And Solutions

Even tough laurels can encounter issues. Here’s how to identify and address the most common problems.

Yellowing Leaves (Chlorosis)

Yellow leaves, especially with green veins, often indicate chlorosis. In mountain laurel and other acid-lovers, this is usually a sign of soil that is not acidic enough. For other laurels, it can be caused by waterlogged soil, drought stress, or a nutrient deficiency (often iron). Test your soil pH and adjust watering practices.

Leaf Spot And Shot-Hole Disease

This fungal issue is common on cherry laurels. It appears as brown or purple spots on leaves, which eventually fall out, leaving a “shot-hole” appearance. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and rake up fallen leaves. In severe cases, a fungicide may be necessary.

Pest Infestations

Scale Insects: Look like small, brown bumps on stems and leaves. They suck sap and excrete honeydew. Treat with horticultural oil in late winter or insecticidal soap during the growing season.
Bay Sucker: Causes the edges of bay laurel leaves to thicken and curl. Remove and destroy affected leaves. Insecticides are rarely needed for healthy trees.
Vine Weevil: The grubs eat roots, causing sudden plant collapse. Adults notch leaf edges. Use nematodes (biological control) applied to the soil in late summer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are All Laurel Trees Poisonous?

No, not all. The Bay Laurel (*Laurus nobilis*) is non-toxic and its leaves are used in cooking. However, many other plants commonly called laurel are toxic. Cherry laurel, Portugal laurel, mountain laurel, and spotted laurel all contain compounds that can be harmful if ingested by humans or pets. Always identify your plant correctly before using any part of it.

What Is The Fastest Growing Laurel For A Hedge?

Cherry laurel (*Prunus laurocerasus*), particularly the ‘Rotundifolia’ cultivar, is one of the fastest-growing laurels for hedging. It can easily grow 2 feet or more per year under ideal conditions, quickly forming a dense, tall screen.

Can You Eat Leaves From Any Laurel Tree?

You should only eat leaves from the true Bay Laurel (*Laurus nobilis*). Leaves from other laurel types, like cherry or mountain laurel, contain cyanogenic glycosides and other toxins that can make you very ill. Never consume leaves from a plant unless you are 100% certain of its identity.

How Tall Do Laurel Trees Grow?

Height varies dramatically by type. A bay laurel tree can reach 40 feet over many decades. A cherry laurel hedge is typically maintained at 6-15 feet. Mountain laurel is a shrub usually staying under 10 feet. Spotted laurel often maxes out around 6-10 feet. Always check the expected mature size for your specific variety before planting.

Why Are The Leaves On My Laurel Tree Turning Brown?

Brown leaves on laurels can have several causes. Winter windburn or frost damage is common, especially on young plants. Drought stress or, conversely, waterlogged roots can also cause browning. Fungal diseases like shot-hole or bacterial shothole will create brown spots. Check your watering habits, ensure good drainage, and inspect for signs of disease to diagnose the issue.